Air bags

[Creepy Cruiser]

No worries on all the questions, that's what I'm here for, lol. Ask away.

The reason for the bags being pushed out, is it puts less stress on the bag and needs less psi to lift. As to get closer to the pivot, it gets more lift, but takes a lot more psi to get you there. On a front suspension you don't need as much lift as the rear, because you can only go up as far as it takes until it locks up. In the rear, bag placement is more important for what kind of ride you want. The further back the bag, the less lift, it takes less psi, it's more stable and more weight carrying ability (good for heavy cars and trucks and towing). The further forward you place the bags, the more lift, it takes more psi, and a softer ride (better for MiniTrucks and such that don't have much weight in the back).

Mine are actually centered on the spacer, to fit correctly in the pocket. (you'll see when you get in there.)

[BIGEVIL]

Great info!
For the 10 psi difference, I'll go with a high quality 2500# bag for clearance reasons.
Ok 1 last question. (sorry to keep bugging you)

Why are most of the pictures I see, the spacer is offset from the center of the top of the bag? I'm not talking about the angle cut on the top of the spacer, but the position of where it bolts on the top of the bag.

It almost looks like the bag is being shoved outboard towards the back of the rim when inflated.

[Creepy Cruiser]

Well, yes and no, lol.

That are all good advice, and in most cases, rules to live by. Sometimes though, you have to work around those rules little.

In my case, the front spring pocket isn't big enough to fit a 2600# without clipping a whole section of new frame in there (you still have to cut out a bunch of the lower lip on the pocket to clear the 2500's). Years ago, bag technology wasn't what it is today and it wasn't safe, but now things are much better and PSI ratings are much higher. Mine at ride height, is about 130psi front and 65psi rear and rides a little softer than stock. I've had them in there for about 8 years now with no issues at all. My buddies big block truck with 2600's in the front runs at about 120psi at ride height, so there is a little difference. Now obviously for liability reasons, I can't tell you it's ok, lol, but I know plenty of people that run them, including myself and have never had an issue. I have contitech bags in right now, but I have a set of 200psi Slam RE6's waiting to go in. I would not recommend the Firestone up front since they are only true rated at 100psi (although many people run them much higher, I don't feel safe with that).

Now I won't lie, I had a butt pucker factor of about 8 (on a scale from 1-10) for the first few months driving around on them, becuase I was the only one crazy enough at the time to try it,lol. But now with better technology, lots of people do it.

You will also need to build a spacer to bring down the bag to the proper height. I modeled mine after the full size Chevy truck spacers. (similar to these, but almost no angle on the top.) And for the lower I just cut off the original lower mount and plated the control arm


Now this is not the only way to do it, but we've bagged tons of cars and trucks and this is just how I did it.

[BIGEVIL]

Only 2500# bags in the front? Everything I read says I need 2600# too lift the front of a big block car. I also read that 2500# bag will take huge psi to do it and will ride rough.
Obvioulsy I trust your knowledge. What is the real scoop.

[Creepy Cruiser]

I can't remember on my '64, but on my '65 (which I think is the same), a bunch had to be cut just to fit a 2500# bag up front. All the guys I know, run Slams RE6's (2500# size) up front and Slams RE7's (2600# size) in the back. As far as how much you have to do to get it to lay out, all depends on how big of wheels and tires you plan on running. If you've done bags setups before, it shouldn't take much more than a day or two to do the whole thing, if you haven't, it's a crap load of work, lol. Hope that helps, lol.

[BIGEVIL]

Creepy,
How much trimming is needed up front for 2600# bags on a 64 caddy? I don't need to lay frame, but I'd like it to look close.
I'm trying to decide if I can tackle it myself.

[Creepy Cruiser]

You should be fine with mono leafs and even if it did have a little side to side you could always add a pan hard bar to it. 4 link is by far the best way to go normally, but to get one to fit in one of these, you have to cut the crap out of it, lol. I run a 2 link with a pan hard bar in mine, and while I was in there, I did 4 wheel disk brakes and an 8" narrower rear end to get 10" wide wheels to tuck all around.

[Venom]

I have gone in favor of 4-link rear suspension, in the past. Have you guys had any issue with rear sway or shift when running just the single leaf? Any sign that the spring or shackles are fatiguing?

shouldnt have any side shift problems, since the first leaf is usually the only one that runs all the way to the mounts anyway, it carries the side load whether a full leaf pack or by itself
Also shouldnt be any more stress on the spring or shackles, the load there should be the same as well

[hearseboy]

... If you have leaf springs, you remove all the leafs but one or two on each side, and the air bag replaces the load carrying capacity. The remaining leaf is used to locate the axle and keep it in place. I've been running it for 2 years with no problems.

I have gone in favor of 4-link rear suspension, in the past. Have you guys had any issue with rear sway or shift when running just the single leaf? Any sign that the spring or shackles are fatiguing?
-Just curious, cause this would save me a LOT of hassle on a car I don't care enough about to 4-link.

ps. Creepy - I like em low too.

[Creepy Cruiser]

That's all good advice.

I personally like Slam Specialties bags.

[R U INJRD]

I used Air Ride Technologies AirOverLeaf brackets on the back of my GMC, and they have worked out well. If you have leaf springs, you remove all the leafs but one or two on each side, and the air bag replaces the load carrying capacity. The remaining leaf is used to locate the axle and keep it in place. I've been running it for 2 years with no problems. I did run two bags on each side in the rear for extra weight carrying capacity. Probably not necessary, but good piece of mind. I would definitely do it on a hearse since it probably weighs a good ton or two more.

I agree the front is probably the same as a standard Cadillac of the same year, so there may be a kit for that. You would maybe want to step up to the next higher weight capacity bag there too, due to the extra weight of the commercial chassis.

Be careful and do a lot of research though, especially on the weight capacity of bags. Bags are commonly referred to as 2500# or 2600# bags, and people think this is the weight capacity of the bag. Sometimes it is, or is close, but not always. If you're designing the system on your own, make sure you find out the true weight carrying capacity of the bags, don't just go by the part number. Most bag manufacturers have this info available if you do a little digging.

[Creepy Cruiser]

It's relatively strait forward. The only thing is if it's anything like mine, it was super tight to get it all to fit and not have to cut the floor. Luckly you'll probably be keeping your leaf springs, (which is way easier) instead of building all new control arms and mounts to get it to lay flat on the ground like me.

I've bagged well over 100 cars over the years, and there is nothing like draggin body and frame at 60 mph down the freeway and throwing 60 feet of sparks out the back, lol.

[jason_sps]

I have had the car for three years now. I've grown quite fond of it. I even had it tattooed on my leg. As for the rear kit, I don't think I would have too many problems with fabricating some mounts for it.

[Creepy Cruiser]

In that case, I believe they do make a kit for the front, but you would still have to build the rear from scratch.

[R U INJRD]

How long have you had it? I know where there is a 75 Cad M/M for sale with a complete 3-way table in it.