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Is hot rodding dead?
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In due time.
The panel truck is a much bigger undertaking than I thought. They are very hard to find parts for. But I wanted a 40 Ford panel so when this one showed up at my friends house I had to get her. Some of the problems I have run into are... the hood and doors are truck unique making them difficult to locate but not impossible. I have a perfect hood but no good doors yet. I have 2 good front fenders. The rear doors are rotten and IMPOSSIBLE to find. I will have to patch them. The rear valence is also rotten and impossible to find, it may be too far gone. The rear fenders are also panel unique but they make them out of glass. I hate glass, so I will repair them or modify sedan fenders. The cowl is rotten but an easy fix. The frame is junk but any 40 Ford frame will fit and they are easy to find. The bumpers grill and most other stuff will interchange with any standard 40 Ford.
The flathead is still in between the fender wells but I have to put something in it that has a massive set of hairy bean bags hanging from it. Not a small block or big block Chevy. I want something 50's era and was thinking about building a 59 vintage Buick 401. They have 325hp and 445 lb-ft of torque from the factory but that does not equal a big set of hairy bean bags... It needs some fine tuning. I can put in a set of Pontiac rods for starters (machine work needed) and 1960 pistons. The 1960 pistons bump the compression up to 10 3/4:1 and the pontiac rods are longer and give it a better rod angle. Bore it out .030 and all that ought to free up 50hp. I need a set of 1962 Buick D port heads which have a taller exaust port and are worth 15 more HP as is. I can have larger 1.94 intake valves installed with chevy valve springs and I can use 60-66 year model rocker shafts since they are made of aluminum as opposed to iron. Putting a duel quad intake on it will add to it. The nailheads like duel quads and make a shit load of power with them. I can then have the intake and heads ported, mathched and polished. That ought to bump it up another 55hp. The stock crank is forged so it is fine but it can be lightened a lot and have the bottom end balenced. The 59 Cam can be ground down and made aggresive. The cam has a 114 centerline and can be ground down to 7/8 inch if needed. I should be able to get another 40 hp out of a good cam grind. I can use the water pump of a base model car with out air conditioning because they only have 3 impellors while the power hungry A/C cars had 5 impellor veins. Thats 10 another hp. I should have around 495 hp and 625 lb-ft of torque, the way they used to do it. Anyone can buy shit at Summit and throw it on a 350. I refuse to be like the sheep at car shows and will built what I want.
As for colors I am undecided. Maybe satin black or grey primer with some 40 ford wheels, whitewalls and some pinstriping. I have a shit load of work to do before I get to that point anyway. I do know I am going to smooth over the ugly spare tire hole on the pass side
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Has anyone seen the show Hard Shine yet? I thought it was pretty good. I love rat rods. It makes me want one now! I may have to go get my 52 Ford truck out of storage and rod it. Its in very good shape and in black primer. I need to paint the wheels rebuild the master cyl and throw on some whitewalls.
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I don't know why they do that, go though all the trouble of having the car painted the factory color like that and then have the body shop over do the paint work.
I know a lot of people that do that with concours cars. Then they get pissed because they got docked points on paint. Why? No factory orange peel, no overspray, and 12 coats thick.
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