My hearse has been shot at three times now

[Double D]

feet in the Weaver stance, and weapon pointing down at a 45 degree angle. At this point, I am not guilty of having pointed a weapon at anyone. I move back through their circle, always looking around. The first one who draws is the first one who gets fired upon, and all I can do is my best. I'm going to be moving, so I will keep my eyes mainly on the front sight. A side step, crossed foot over foot

I was told in a weaver stance NOT to cross foot over foot because if you had to change direction quickly you could trip over yourself.
Everything else you describe sounds good, I have yet to try the tuck & roll thing, seems like its either a very advanced move or more of a hollywood thing.

[Xanthus]

I never leave home without at least my KelTec PF9 9mm in my pocket
less than an inch thick - it disappears even in shorts
if its cool enough for an overshirt, theres a jackass shoulder rig with either a Sig .40 or an H&K .45 under my arm

Being a small frame for a man I khave the P3-AT in my pocket most of the time. Due to me being a hands in the pocket guy my hand happens to be on my weapon most of the time. I need to get a blueing kit, the back right corner of the slide needs a retouch.

Oddest thing, 18 years ago I was an agressive looking to get into a fight 1 tear old. Now that I am armed i find myself avoiding situations that back then I would have charged into.

Anyways, I hope thay stop shooting your car.

[Morella]

I was told in a weaver stance NOT to cross foot over foot because if you had to change direction quickly you could trip over yourself.

This is good. You can never have too many instructors, and people who get upset when they are corrected will never learn anything, because they already know it all.

I have a bit of a problem because my spine is twisted. I cannot even hold a rifle on my right shoulder, it just doesn't reach, nor can I do a proper Weaver stance from the right. I can fire one left-handed, but the only rifle I can comfortably fire is my AK47, because I don't put it on my shoulder. I've actually thought about sawing the stock off. Mine doesn't jam, but Tony's has jammed a few times, mostly when he fires it, for some reason. It also goes full auto for a few rounds sometimes, which could get him into trouble. If it jams, I just hold it by the pistol grip and run that action, swiftly. This always clears it, but I am told that it doesn't on the M16, so I feel that the AK is a better weapon. People who use the Kalashnikov do not usually die from jamming problems, as so many Americans have.

I should be shooting a pistol with my left hand, which is much more accurate, and I have the sights on my Taurus Titanium set that way, but my right hand is about three times as fast, and a police officer once told me that speed is more important than accuracy. Of course, he was used to dealing with people at traffic stops, where he is close to the aggressor. I should probably review this, but as I recall, you can side step one way from the weaver stance, but not the other. I had forgotten that. Thanks for the review.

Here is a tip for accuracy. With a revolver, leave out one cartridge and spin the barrel a little bit so that you don't know which one it is (no, we're not playing Russian Roulette, so don't point it at your head). When you get to the dry hole, you will be able to tell if you are flinching when you fire. I trained myself not to flinch by dry firing a weapon many times, and then convincing myself that I was dry firing, expecting no recoil, when I had the weapon loaded. I make a nice, tight group now. When you dry fire, just make sure that it's unloaded. Check it twice, like Santa Claus.

Another practice you can do, also with the weapon unloaded, is to move around and try to keep your front sight on an object. Do not worry so much about the rear sights when moving. They will take care of themselves. Just make sure that the front sight stays centered on the target. Every now and then, change targets, while still moving around. Don't do it outside, because even though it is your right to carry a weapon on your property, if someone freaks out and calls 911, you will probably get arrested for brandishing.

-denise

[Otto Baron]

Never Dry fire your weapon! We'll, not unless you're a practicing gunsmith and can do the repairs you'll be needing on your firing pin. I keep "snapcaps" in my SAA when I'm not chambering the blanks we use for our guns with the Old West gunfighting group which I belong. This will allow you to fire the weapon without setting off a charge.

[Baker]

Ha, your hearse isn't the only one that gotten shot at.. I'm still trying to figure out how mine happened though

[eric anderson]

wow, hearse getting shot to weapons tactics, things move quick here.for training and tactics try right2defend.com, i can recommend all his classes. in my opinion dry firing is not harmful to a weapon unless it's maybe an old revolver with the firing pin on the hammer but like otto said snap caps are good. single action shooters society? could be fun but try united states practical shooters asocaition for some real run n gun fun but any shooting is good shooting as long as they ain't shooting back

[Otto Baron]

Being a history buff, I'll stick with being undertaker for my cowboy shooting group.

[Morella]

That is one serious hole in your coach. I think I would have fixed it before it rusted too badly, though.

I've had instructors tell me to dry fire your weapon all you want to, and some say to never dry fire them. The best thing you can do is to call the manufacturor of the weapon and ask. Caps sound like a good idea. I called Ruger to ask if I could fire +P+ law enforcement ammo in a P95, because that's a pretty hot round, and within five minutes, I had my answer, that it was OK. I'm glad I checked, though. I also asked S&W if I could fire .38 special +P rounds in a K-frame, and they said that I could fire them for self-defense, but not to give it a steady diet of them.

You should try to get all of the information you can about your weapons. Start by reading the manual. If it didn't come with one, every manufacturor that I know of will send you one, if you call or write to them.

The P95 has some interesting features. For one thing the P95D, which stands for "Decock Only" has no safety. If the hammer is cocked, there is a decock lever on each side, which puts in an extra sear so that the hammer can fall safely. That leads me to believe that it could be safely dry fired, but the manual or a call to Ruger tells you for sure. I don't trust the decock. I use my other thumb and make the hammer fall slowly so that it can't fire. A sear will occasionally wear out. The reason that I decock it is because it is sort of a safety, if I don't have a cartridge in the chamber. The slide must be run before it can fire. There are some other interesting things about this weapon too. It will fire whether or not it has a magazine in it or not. In fact, with the magazine out and the action open, you can drop in one cartridge, close the action and fire it. The book says that you may want to use the feature to teach a child. I like it because I can drop one in, close the slide, and then put the magazine in without having to tun one round through and then put one back in the magazine as with some pistols. The weapon should be cleaned and oiled (people usually use a product like Break-Free now that does both, at least every three months. The outside of the barrel (inside of the barrel bushing, only it doesn't actually have a bushing) is the most important place to lubricate, because it is intense metal-to-metal contact. There is no need to do a detailed strip and clean very often, if at all, because the soot doesn't get down into the bottom, unless maybe you're using that Fiocchi crap. I tried that once, and that was enough for me. It smokes like an old diesel engine. I don't use that stuff that you can't reload, either. I forget the brand name, (CCW?) and I don't have any here. It's probably good for your ramp, but I like to keep my brass, just in case. I don't remember how often you have to replace the recoil springs, but it doesn't look too hard. It's one of the four parts you have to remove when you strip and clean it.

A Taurus Tittie doesn't like .38 special, but a S&W .357 is fine with it.

I used to think that it was impossible to hurt yourself cleaning a gun, that it was just used as a way of saying that someone important like a General commited suicide, but knowing how much there is to it now, I can believe it, especically if one forgets to unload it.