Fetish Model With Hearse ~~ an intro

[LMS]

I think LMS might have to give up his title. Thanks for the combo-breaker and restoring my lack of faith in humanity, yet again.

No, it's all good. Chesty was being a pig not an ass hole.

[Dickey]

I think LMS might have to give up his title. Thanks for the combo-breaker and restoring my lack of faith in humanity, yet again.

Seemed more of an empirical statement than anything untoward in my opinion.

[Loz]

How far are u willing to travel for a good repair shop? I own my own shop, and I love working on hearses. Im on long island, might be a ride, probaly around 1-2 hours away.

[pyro]

Throw up a pic of a pretty gal, and you guys go crazy.

Welcome aboard

[Dickey]

Yeah but to be fair, she was standing next to a hearse with flames on it and has rendered enough details to warrant a seriously intriguing life story. That's so much win she may as well be fiction.

[chestypuller]

I think LMS might have to give up his title. Thanks for the combo-breaker and restoring my lack of faith in humanity, yet again.

who is that?

[SmoothNlow]

who is that?

Who is LMS?! WHO IS LMS?!

LMS is the resident asshole. Someone let this guy know who the fuck LMS is lol

[Psychoholic]

LordMonkeySatan - one of the original founding members of Dead Ends and the VP of DE.

He's also a complete asshole. Go look at the polls we've done over the years.

[chestypuller]

i will have to form my own opinion, as im not one of the mindless sheep obama followers.

[Widow Centauri]

Alright, so I'm back. I took some pics and a short video under my coach. My tech scene is a little janky right now so its gonna take me a couple days to get to resize them. The cc has a huge rust hole in it. the pipe going into it has a split seam. There is an oil leak of some sort. Some areas are rather saturated.

I'm now rather freaked out about driving her. I just drove her two hours without stopping to get here here. I had no problems. The defrost is pathetic, but that was the only thing I noticed. But I have to take her someplace SOON.

That said, Long Island is not out of the question, not is a Carolina. At some point (spring or fall next year) I will be ready to head out on a tour, so I'll plan on heading that way. In the mean time ...

If you want to see me do my funny thing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGAEZwQ4AUA

If you google me you should have a lot of time, you should NOT do this in front of children or at work or in front of a bitchy wife. Just a disclaimer. Also don't be squeamish, not that a group of people who drive death coaches would be squeamish.

I'll be back in a couple days with pics and something that resembles a plan of action.

step one: put fire extinguisher in Edith.

[hearsejr]

You should have ever said for me to your handle to google..eeerr google on your handle..to look up your nick name. Now I'll be up all night....Looking for pics of your hearse. Come'on guys get your heads out of the gutter..lolololol. beside abot 90% of you guys have already did..or is doing it now!

[hearsejr]

oh yeah forgot to ask...when will we see a pic of the red mistress on a hearse? I found the one on the camper...LOL.
I also was wondering if you can get performance cat converter cheaper then originals and get some extra flow while saving a few $$? it seems I bought one for a chevy truck a long time back for about 1/2 of what the chevy place quoted.

just wondering if this would work? http://www.jcwhitney.com/eastern-cat...=d223y1979g2j1

[garyc]

From that picture, I'd bank on the inner wheel house needing to be repaired as well as the exterior quarter panel. It looks like unfortunately the bottom of the side loader door is starting to go as well. Possibly the rockers too under the trim. Not to scare you - but that's how rust is. What you can see is typically only a small fraction of it, once you dig into the vehicle. How's the inner door structures on it, if you open up the doors? Reason I'm asking is reskinning the exteriors shouldn't be a hard task for a competent bodyshop. The inner might post a more sizable challenge for a typical bodyshop though as the piece will either have to be patched in or fabricated from scratch - depending on how badly they are damaged.

Bummer about the rot though. Once you get the other pictures up that will help to clarify the situation.

As far as a temporary stop gap measure - while it won't look the greatest, something along the lines of Por-15 or Chassis Saver in silver painted directly on the rust will definitely help to slow it and preserve what is there, as they are rust converters. Meaning they'll help to seal it up from the elements. That is definitely not a permanent fix, but it will help to slow the spread of it. Knock off all the loose scale and paint that stuff on there (it's brushable, just don't get it on your skin as it's a royal pain in the freaking rear to get off...). Beign silver, it will also help to make it not as noticible, as from the picture it looks like a decent match, but again.. computer monintors vs reality are 2 different things when it comes to it. That being said, you could brush that stuff on there then topcoat it with a can of spray paint that matches the current color. Not ideal, but arguably better than having the rust for a stop-gap measure.


The water on the pass floor as was mentioned could be a leaky windshield seal, heater core problem, etc. WIthout seeing it, hard to say. If it *only* happens in the rain, I'd bet on a seal needing attention somewhere. Be it due to the seal itself going, or the window channel itself rotting away, or could be something to do with the cowl allowing water in and leaking in / thru the firewall.

Best way to find a mechanic - if you have cruise nights in your area. I'd suggest going and talking to those guys. Car guys don't bite. In fact they'll talk your ear off if you let them. THey do tend to make for pretty great references though, if you are looking for a good local wrench. They probably have experience with a lot & have heard a lot of things.


The side doors could be a number of things. Could be a latch problem - might be as simple as they're out of adjustment, or simply stuck and need to be broken free and lubricated. Could be even easier than that and you just didn't see the locking mechanism. I've done that myself. If you pull the door card everything will be out in the open and a lot easier to see. That being said, sometimes pulling the door card without having the door open is nearly impossible... so. I realize that's no help. But if you take it to a bodyshop they should be able to have a quick look and help you out there without issue.

As far as storage - as silly as it may sound, talk to guys with boat yards or that allow storage of RV's. I've found some seriously cheap inside storage for some crazy oversized vehicles that way years prior. I stuck an old COE medium duty truck, in a yard just like that for cheap as hell. We're talking $90 a month for inside storage. The only catch was I had somewhat limited access in winter months as it was parked in by boats, but come spring when everybody got their winterized boats out I had free reign. Owner was a car guy - which worked in my favor. But stuff like that is out there. Part of it is luck, part of it is just being able to look outside the box and go with it.

The cat converter - you can get away with a budget high flow cat. Any number of places sell them - Jegs, Summit, etc. Even local garages, exhaust shops, parts stores, etc. can get them. OE cats are up in the hundreds (nearing a thousand and up, fwiw. Higher platinum content inside the converter, among it being an OE part and other reasons). A basic high-flow you can get for a LOT cheaper. It'll help with the heat problem on the floor as well, as if your CC was split wide open up top - heat rises. And that will get transferred thru to the floor. Not to mention it'll be safer on you, as having exhaust dumping under the vehicle like that is never a good thing.

Something like that will work. http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389...ductId=2159313

Obviously I'm not saying that exact one, but that should give you an idea and it's probably similar to what you'll wind up with. Typically budget around $60-120 / cat for the budget side of things. Actually having it installed - a good local muffler shop should be able to do it relatively inexpensively, if it's not a complicated piece with pre-cats & cats or a massive amount of bends. If it's just a cat or two on a straight forward 2.125" or 2.5" setup - it will probably run you around $300, give or take, to get the cat problem taken care of. If you were local (midwest) I could recommend a few places that could take care of you for $150-200... but on the East Coast I couldn't begin to guess. Apologies there.

Anyway - looks like a pretty neat piece. Best of luck to you with getting it sorted.

[Psychoholic]

I already like this guy ^

[sgath92]

The heat under the floor is probably the catalytic converter acting up, You probably need a new one and maybe other exhaust work as well.
The wet spot on the floor is most likely a leaking heater core, either that or a bum is peeing in your car at night.

Could also be a leaky windshield. I've had a few cars that get wet in that area from the windshield adhesive getting old & letting rain water in. My car will do it too, but only during heavy rains. Its an expensive fix though, as it means taking out the windshield & reinstalling it. Stay away from silicone, thats for fish tanks not car windows. Having done window installations before I hate silicone. It will make doing the repair the right way later 10 times as hard.

I;m not sure if that Par 15..I think that is the rust converter stuff...will help or not. I know it's costly and you have to wire brush the lose stuff off.
I did some checking, and looked a job a friend did on his 73 convertible caddy. he went and bought a whole side from JC Whitney. he went and cut the side off from the chrome strip down and wielded the new side on it. he left little tabs drilled holes on the new side and spot wielded it on to the tabs. then he just used lead to wield the seams and fill it in. I think there was something called "aluminoy" (Spelling is way off but that's what it sounded like) it can wield the seam together with one of those little blue torches you see plumbers use. it ended up costing less then the body shop quoted for body filler fix.

Stay away from gimmicks like POR15. Its over glorified superglue, and will eventually let water seep in underneath the "glue" and stay trapped against the metal, rusting the shit out of it.

The only "good" repair to rust is to cut out all the rust and weld in new metal, so you either have to take up welding or start befriending some welders. There are a few shops in New England that specialize in rebuilding car bodies from rust, but going that way would probably cost you. The body work after that [prep for paint & paint] isn't too bad to do yourself. I would have tried to pickup welding myself for situations like this, but with my sensitivity towards UV I'd probably burst into flames & run around setting the garage on fire the first time I'd draw an arch. I can't/shouldn't even be in the same room as someone welding.

To temporarily delay the rust, sand & grind off as much as you can, then prime & paint the exposed metal afterwords. Don't just leave it in primer, or it will rust fast as primer is very porish and lets water threw easily. But this won't do much for long. Riveting patches in can also accelerate rust, because you're basically punching a hole in sheet metal that isn't going to be sealed and then putting a different type of metal threw it. When different metals are put together and exposed to salt water it will start a chemical reaction, and one of the two will become a sacrificial metal and start to dissolve [for lack of a better word] leaving room for water to make contact with that now-exposed bare sheet metal. I have no problem using rivets to patch a beater to pass inspection, but I would only do it to a car I care about in an emergency situation. Fiberglass is better as a temporary patch than rivets, if you have to do somthing and can't have welding done right away. You can even get creative and shape the patch out of cardboard, load it up with resin, and then lay glass over it to "make" a large section of shaped bodywork.

A lot of these cars leak in the custom bodywork. I put holes in my rear quarter panels because they were acting as water storage tanks. Think it was getting in from the taillight openings, and there was probably more than 10 gal sitting in each corner. You know in looneytune cartoons how they'll have someone carrying around a barrel of gunpowder, leaving a trail behind them? Thats what my car was doing only w/ water everywhere I went until I put drainage holes in it.