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NEED HELP WITH PERFORMANCE MODS!
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I went to Summit, and there are all sorts of cam kits for a Chevy 350, which is most likely what you have, IMIBO, so they should have all kinds of stuff. Just be sure and consult them, and whomever else you can, before you buy. Work, pain, and money spent should bring you happiness, and it sure sucks when you're not happy with the job.
-denise
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I agree that the exhaust is the place to start, but there should be buttloads of performance parts for a 350, even for a 90. We had the 350 TBI in our 92 truck, and it was still a solid block at 190,000 miles, with oil pressures like a three-year-old car, even though it had had a 5th wheel on it and had probably seen some heavy use. I just made the mistake of not driving it for three years, and the seals went out everywhere. The rear main was leaking like a sieve, and that was the show stopper. I sold it for $250, and the removal of a bee-infested Deville chassis, which would have cost me some bucks to get rid of, if anyone would touch it.
I'm curious now...let me see what Summit and Jeg's have for that engine. Is it TBI, or does it have sequential fuel injection? This car is much newer than what I am used to working with.
-denise
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The rear drive caddy's in the 90's had small block Chevy engines in them. The front drive cars had small caddy engines in them.
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Once I get this damn house finished, its on like donkey kong with the car. Within the next year I want to have the new wheels, the few little cancer spots fixed and repainted, the injectors replaced, the brakes and suspension redone, the rest of my system put in, the big 3 done, new exhaust, and windows tinted. It doesn't sound like alot in a year but this is my daily driver so I also have alot of maintenance and wear and tear on it since it makes cross country trips.
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I have found in everything I drive that well done performance mods will generaly increase MPG.
The key is balance. More power gain through the entire system. Electrical power, intake, exhaust, all working at higher volume in proportion will have more power on tap to move the car easier, thus better MPG from more casual driving. If you look to the lightest wheel you can deal with you will save gas as well and gain power due to lessening the rotational weight of each wheel as well as the overall weight of the car. I will personally be shopping for wheels this year, but my caps will do just fine for now. Some have filled their tires with a nitrogen mix for a weight loss, but I have little faith it is all that they make it out to be. All the same I am going to try it on my sportscar eventually.
Now my 30+MPG autocross car gets 6MPG when racing, but with a heavier car more power will be better for MPG as well. Easier for the motor to move the car = less gas used to do it as you spend less time with your foot on the floor.
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Now on a side note, I'm not trying to get balls to the wall with mine, just a little more umph and a little better gas mileage for my long ass roadtrips I make all the time. Not to say though I wouldn't mind havin that extra power to yanno get to the grocery store a little faster.
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Once I get my brakes REdone and my new injectors in, I plan on getting a high flow cat and maybe a nice mellow three chamber flowmaster on it and see about getting some of those 20,000 bends taken out and get as much straight pipe as possible.
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My 91 S&S has the 305, 5.0L, TBI, made for Cadillac by GM.
Wife's 90 Eureka has the 350, 5.7L, TBI, made for Cadillac by GM.
But my original point was to improve the exhaust. Dual exhaust with large diameter pipe and free flow cats (see www.summitracing.com)will make a HUGE difference in power and better gas milage. As crazy as it seems, with quality high flow catalytic converters, you really don't need mufflers. The cats do a pretty good job of keeping the noise down just enough. In 1979 there was a special edition Pontiac trans am called a "Macho T/A". It had 2 cats per side and no mufflers right from the factory. That car sounded BADASS!
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Well I got royally screwed than, cuz mine has that damn 4.5L and I can't do anything to it in the way of mods, you all have all sorts of goodies for yours. Wished I would have done my research before I bought mine, definetely would have saved up a few more bucks and bought the rear wheel drive.
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My 91 S&S has the 305, 5.0L, TBI, made for Cadillac by GM.
Wife's 90 Eureka has the 350, 5.7L, TBI, made for Cadillac by GM.
And the 350 gets better milage. The 91 S&S is a little under powered with the 305.
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Well if thats the case than whatever performance mods you can find for the chevy caprice TBI 5.7L should bolt up the same which should include cold air induction, throttle body spacer, and maybe even some shortie headers for it. Might take some redneck engineering to actually make some of that stuff fit into the engine compartment but if they really are the same motors the door just opened a little wider for ya when it comes to performance mods.
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