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bigevil you have a pm
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i had thought of putting 2 15's and 3 10's in my casket...after measuring allowing for 3/4" mdf lining the inside of the casket i had just shy of 9 cubic foot...took the measurements to ultimate audio in lexington, sc and asked them what they would put in it, and was told 'as many 15's as will fit in it' was going to put the amps, crossovers and wiring in the lid and a linear actuator on the end to open the lid remotely...Comment
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You will be disappointed if you use different size subwoofers near each other. Choose 15's or 10's but not both together.i had thought of putting 2 15's and 3 10's in my casketComment
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i was going for a 1/3 octave crossover, the 15's would only play from 50hz and below and the 10's would play the higher bass notes...lots of music i listen to has a real low bass and a lot of mid bass...Comment
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Still wont work. The 15's at 50 hz will be playing exactly at 1/2 the speed but 2x's the excursion than that of the 10's at 100hz and so forth. The wave length will cancel each other out.i was going for a 1/3 octave crossover, the 15's would only play from 50hz and below and the 10's would play the higher bass notes...lots of music i listen to has a real low bass and a lot of mid bass...
If you really need a mid bass fill, put some 8's in some kick panels.Comment
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A little off the subject, but yanno what I love about this forum is if I don't know something (which is quite often) I know I can come on here and search old posts or post a new thread and find out virtually anything I need to know about my hearse and someone will have an answer!Comment
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I have discovered a problem with having 4 15"s inside a casket. The problem is that with them aimed up all of the power is blasting the roof of my hearse and shaking the he$# out of the fiberglass roof... It sounds very bad... I had 2 15" placed in the front and it rocked me out of the driver seat but I can not drive with no room to sit down. I am now looking at getting 2 12" S-class subs installed behind the passenger and driver seats with the amp still in the back. I am going to go and have the space measured Friday to see if it is possible.
Off the subject but just found out that my dad just purchase a 1972 Miller Meter combination hearse in West Virginia today and is leaving to go pick it up Friday!Comment
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Thats an easy fix. We build you a fake casket. All the subs are actually hidden deep inside. The bottom half will contain the 4 subs pointing up. The top half is completely sealed except for a large port that is pointed towards the front of the car. It is called a 4th order enclosure. The size of the port is an EXACT science, but I can help.The problem is that with them aimed up all of the power is blasting the roof of my hearse and shaking the he$# out of the fiberglass roof... It sounds very bad...
4th order.jpgComment
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Hey BigE what software do you use for tuning? I've installed quite a few systems in my day, but it was always a prebuilt box or a sealed enclosure that I built. I never got into building ported, 4th order or any other type enclosure.Originally posted by BIGEVIL View PostComment
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1st I measure all the T/S specs in my PC with with a WT3 woofer tester. Most published specs are usually off about 10%.Hey BigE what software do you use for tuning? I've installed quite a few systems in my day, but it was always a prebuilt box or a sealed enclosure that I built. I never got into building ported, 4th order or any other type enclosure
2nd, I download all the info to a program I have called BassBox Pro. It will predict and plot anything from a basic sealed to a 6th order enclosure. It will also do passive radiators. I love this program because I have some flexability to compensate for the fact that the speaker box is in a car.
If you have some subs, and you can get the T/S specs, I will equate the "efficiency bandwith product" to see if the drivers will perform better in a sealed or ported enclosure for you.Comment
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Just like D3athm3talh3ad said....you have to have the cubic room for the speakers to function correctly. JustCadaver ran into problems there with the lid even slightly opened (they placed 3 inch rubber stops to keep it ajar)...it did not sound right. With the bottom lid opened up it was fantastic (he was using a half couch casket).
Another problem that no one thought about was the fiberglass top on the M-M---with the system up a little over half way it was literally shaking the top off the body!!! No insulation or very little between the headliner and f-g top meant terrible noise and possible damage to the coach.
Ryan has rejected the concept at the time being and opted for a single bass with smaller amp under the cargo area deck.Comment
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SUBS ARE IN!!!
Ok I have had 2 subs and an amp installed in the cargo area. I now have no cargo area but it sounds great! I had these installed:
1 - 1100 x 1 1 ohm amp. This amp is a class D mono block subwoofer amplifier.
2 - S class 12" dvc subs. These are the 15-SC12D4 12" Subwoofer from Memphis Audio.
1 - 4 gauge amp kit. This is a Memphis amp kit so now I have a 3 year warranty on the parts.
Had 30 feet of 8 gauge wire.
Another 20 feet of 12 gauge wire.
A custom box. The box takes up all of the space aside from the spare tire in the cargo area so I now have my jack behind the driver seat but the box looks like it is part of the car!
And on top of this their is no vibration at all!!! NONE!!! I do not know how but subs at max with volume at 40 their is no vibration in the car and all of the stuff is in the front area of the hearse. When you get into the back you do not hear anything behind the partition now. The box has the subs facing down with a port that opens into the front cabin area of the car and is hid from view but you would not think that it was anything.
I had some strange looks tonight when I had it booming through Richmond! People I bet were thinking that it was someone else because my hearse looks like it is in service! My casket is back again empty and ready for someone. It does have a plug kit in it because I did not want them to take out the plugs and leave a hole in the casket or hearse so now I am ready to place a TV or something in the casket and have power ran to it now
As soon as I can I will post some pictures of it. Or you can check my myspace page and go to my friends list and click on the Audio Center friend because they are the ones that installed the stuff. It is in one of their photo albums both the failed casket design and the new method of the subs in the cargo area.
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Sounds like the new system is kickin serious ass!Comment
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While you guys are on the subject.
A few weeks ago I went to a local stereo shop for suggestions and to buy. I left discouraged since they basically seemed like they didn't want to sell anything. I am looking to do the work I just need the equipment.
My goal is to add to the car without cutting the car up and leaving it as stock looking as possible. Anything I do I want to be able to remove it so the hearse can always look stock.
So, I went home and ordered 2 6-1/2 polk audio 2 way speakers for doors from crutchfield.
I also installed a rf sony 10 cd changer behind the pass seat. It sounds good, but I've owned better changers.
In the church truck compartment there is much space.
My thinking is that I could build a box that would have to have woofers that face up. The height from the casket floor to car floor pan is about 10 inches. I think they would sound better facing forward but I don't have many options to do this. I could do some kind of a slope forward box. I don't know how it will sound and I really don't know what size subs and how much power to push them. I like to crank the stereo sometimes, but I'm also not trying to get into crank it up car contests. What do you guys think?Comment
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