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**hotroddwayne** · 05-31-2009, 03:55 PM

Custom Coffin Works had a thread on here a while back http://www.nationalhearse.net/forums...ead.php?t=4351 of all the problems he ran into trying to make roll-down windows in his hearse. He'd come up with the solution to make his rear doors have 2 piece glass... have the angled corner of the glass stationary & the main section of glass can roll up & down & clear the door hinges. Since yours isn't a three-way coach i'm assuming, it may not be as hard of a job. Buy an aftermarket electric window kit & some standard window channel... remember to run the window channel DOWN through the rear door too @ the front edge of the glass (to give the glass something to guide itself down) but they still won't roll all the way down probably, since commercial glass is 4" taller (typically) than standard glass. It'll be a trial & error job, but there's a suggestion. Never had the doors apart in my 1980 S&S, so it's hard to tell how the stationary glass is even permanently fixed into place or if there's a flat section @ the bottom of the glass to attach to a window mechanism. As for adding seats, look around on here @ peoples pix such as this http://www.nationalhearse.net/forums...ead.php?t=4572 for pix of making a hearse into a limo (rear seating). Also look @ Custom Coffin Works photo album of his limo/hearse.

**Morella** · 05-31-2009, 05:36 PM

I like air conditioning, and white airline curtains with drapes. I guess you could tint them, but then your curtains look stupid.

Rolling down the windows will also fuck up your headliner, sooner or later. Think about something suspended, newer ones are cloth, old ones are brittle, that is being continuously hit with a swirling vortex. I don't drive with my front windows down. Putting in an air conditioner, or repairing it, would be easier than screwing with open windows. The seat shouldn't be any problem at all, even if you want it power, removable, whatever. Just weld in some studs, or bring up bolts from the bottom and put a bead around the top. Use a GM method. I don't recommend the Chrysler attachment method, with nuts on the bottom. It's a pain in the ass. Also, power seats are heavy, and you'll need two people to get them in and out.

-denise (species Comfortabillia Coolica)

**jlprigmore** · 05-31-2009, 06:34 PM

After talking to a few autobody shops about some rust issues I need taken care of, they mentioned, on some newer model hearses the hardware is there already, just the crank has been removed. Not sure how true this really is since my '90 is my first hearse and I haven't removed the doorpanels on my back doors yet but thats what a few of the body shops claim.

**Double D** · 05-31-2009, 08:18 PM

you can check this old thread as well:

NHAA

http://www.nationalhearse.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2583

**Morella** · 06-01-2009, 01:11 AM

I wish I still had my 92 truck. I could show you what happened to the headliner when the PO drove with his windows down. When it started hanging down in my face, I pulled the edge trim and just glued some spots up to keep it from attacking me.

You might want to consider a folding seat of your own design, like a station wagon, but with casters behind the back so you can still take a casket. A folding trunk top in the back would be awesome too. Even in a 3-way, you could put some amenities in the doors. One other thing...you will need extra floor insulation and undercoat, or your floor will get hot. After a freeway ride and then trying to follow a bad map around town, we noticed that even the top of the mound was hot, and I have new exhaust. Shielding the exhaust pipes with blast tubes is another idea I've thought about, and a shield is essential if you have an early GM pancake cat. They get hot enough to rust floorboards out.

-denise (species Trytohelpicus Usualjespissemoffitas)

**BIGEVIL** · 06-01-2009, 10:12 AM

And then there is always my way...

demo2.JPG

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