Roof rot suggestions

[Good for nothing]

Hey! Been a while, was on vacation. While the coach is just sitting around, waiting for funds to rebuild the carb, I was toying with ideas on how to fix the cancer it has on the roof.
It's actually pretty rust-free, except for the major issue, basically rusted through, on the roof. Shitty part is that it's right where the windshield meets the roof.
That being the location, I'm almost positive that welding in a patch would be impossible. Not to mention that would probably just be putting a band-aid on a bullet wound.
What I came up with, though, might work:
What if I got a donor fleetwood and cut off the roof, from where the pillars meet the fenders, to right behind the front doors, and weld that part in? My only issue would be structural integrity. I'm sure that coaches have reinforced frames, but would that be just too much?
As always, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[pyro]

Will the fleetwood have the same roof line?

[Good for nothing]

hmm... I'd assume, but assumptions are dangerous. Think I'll take the trusty tape measure and protractor to the junkyard for some research!!
Let's say, though, that it would-would that just screw up the integrity of the body too much to keep driving it? The pillars are a pretty crucial part of the body...
it's either that or just chop that part of the roof over the seats out and fab a snap-on vinyl cover for it.

[Riff Raff]

Never say impossibe. I have seen and done some stuff that shouldn't have been possible, but anything is possible. Just need enough talent and money. And you can compensate for one with the other, most times.

It should just be the sheet metal that is rotten. If the frame is rotten, you have bigger issues. Sheet metal is easier to fix. Cut out what is rotted. then make a cardboard template of the removed metal. Lay the template out flat on a piece of sheet metal, trace it out. Then cut it out and shape it the fit. Weld it in, bondo, sand and prime. Even if that doesn't work, you can still cut the whole roof off like you stated.

[cupcake]

What car are we talking about? If its a commercial windshield the fleetwood frame roof section will NOT work. If its a passenger windshield it should work. Its a way lot of welding across the roof sheetmetal and will get warpage. But its doable if your careful and slow. If you remove the windshield you can probably cut out the bad section and use a piece of the fleetwood sheet metal from the same section .It will be close. Taking a piece of flat and giving it compound curves like what you need is a talent. Not just cutting out the same shape. The opera top idea is cool. until the cold rainy weather then it sucks.

[SunsetHawkSelena]

if it's not commercial glass, we did just what you are talking about on our 86 fleetwood that did not have commercial glass and it wasn't too bad. see thread here:

http://www.nationalhearse.net/forums/showthread.php?5678-the-transformation-has-begun&highlight=lorcinls1+roof

there was actually quite a bit of factory bondo where the roof met the A pillars so that was our patch point. for the rot going down the A pillars, we just patched in little pieces.

[Good for nothing]

totally rad, thank you!!! Just about to put the fuel pump on it tomorrow; once it's running bodywork will begin! Couple of questions: how would I tell if it has commercial glass, and did you use any solvents to help with the removal of the vinyl top, or just elbow grease?

[travlinman]

Measure the height of the windshield if You can't tell by looking. Some One can tell You. After removing the vinal top, I buffed it the rest of the way with a 4 in. grinder and a wire wheel.

[Good for nothing]

very cool. Off for 2 more days, and I damn sure ain't going anywhere, so I'll be doing some research-maybe even get a start on the removal process. Thanks again.

[SunsetHawkSelena]

on your body style, commercial glass windshields also sit up more straight than the factory glass. the roof line looks a lot more boxy. that's the best way i can describe it. from the little pic in your avatar it looks like it's not commercial glass. if you post a bigger pic, i could tell for sure.

also, to remove the adhesive, we didn't use any solvents for fear of messing up the gel coat on the fiberglass top. we just used a brillo pad looking buffer type weel (don't know the name cuz someone gave it to us) hooked up to our cordless drill and it worked great. very slooooow going tho. don't put too much pressure or you'll burn through that gel coat that way too. take your time and the finished product will turn out great!

[Good for nothing]

well has the "z" code in the VIN which makes it a commercial chassis... If it has commercial glass, guess the opera top's the way I'll have to go! thanks again. Fuel pump's being stubborn as hell, not driving it anywhere in the meantime anyway, might start looking for somewhere to custom make my top and get to cutting.
thanks again!