how can I fix a huge rust hole

[hearsejr]

I have some issues with old factory body filler. can I put a rust converter on it, throw something behind the spot like sheet meta or chicken pen fence or something, and then some filler or fiberglass and just keep building it up?
any thoughts...ideas... advice?

hearserust.jpg

[Dr.Feelgood]

I'd take that trim off where the vinyl meets the body and cut out whatever is rusty and replace it with new sheet. cut several pieces and bend to fit if thats easier. Than weld together in place and a touch of filler to smooth out and paint it.
If you dont killl that rust first off it will grow back and all your fill work will be for not.

[hearsejr]

Thanks,Doc,
well, it was not under the vinyl...the factory used some kind of gray putty between the rear cargo door and the tail lights. there was not a lot of metal there. it had starting popping up and I decided to peel it off and it was about 3/4 of an inch thick...at the thickest point. I will like to put metal in place of the filler but there is a body line that runs half way across part of it.
I was thinking the folks at P.O.R. 15 said the the stuff would seal/convert the rust and make a surface good for the body filler. not that I believe everything a salesman say....but I was hoping I'll try to get better photos next time I get over the the storage place.

[hearsejr]

I forgot to say the rust stop sharp just under the trim. there is real metal there..lol. I'm guess the there will be some bad spots under the vinyl so I am planing to remove it and go with a bed liner over a painted surface. I never was a vinyl top fan. lol

[sgath92]

I have some issues with old factory body filler. can I put a rust converter on it, throw something behind the spot like sheet meta or chicken pen fence or something, and then some filler or fiberglass and just keep building it up?
any thoughts...ideas... advice?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14306[/ATTACH]

Filler should only be up to about 1/8" thick, any more than that and there's a big risk of cracks & adherence problems. It can't be used to makeup for bad prep work by putting a heavy layer down.

[hearsejr]

Thanks, for the info, that stuff on the car was way over 1/8"..it is on both sides of the cargo door, and is thicker then 1/8" ..closer to 1/4"...around the little windows where the sail panels would be if this car had them.
I guess fiberglass would be the way to go then?
Thanks.

[Guest]

80's eurekas are also built from the factory with gobs of filler. the b pillars on mine easily had 1/4" and the upper rear quarters just south of the top have easily 3/4"+ in some places. i have nice crack in that area on mine, and i'm wondering what to do about it also. I have already had one such crack repaired.

[sgath92]

80's eurekas are also built from the factory with gobs of filler. the b pillars on mine easily had 1/4" and the upper rear quarters just south of the top have easily 3/4"+ in some places. i have nice crack in that area on mine, and i'm wondering what to do about it also. I have already had one such crack repaired.

The race hauler we had was done with seriously close to an inch thick of filler. You could rip a piece off where it had started to lose adherence and use it as a tile on a bathroom floor it was so thick. It was coming off everywhere in big sections. And this being the company that made all the "professional" transports in the 70s & 80s, for top level circuits. The Petty family had some of those crew cab haulers. I can't imagine how much weight on that truck was tied up just in filler.

I guess fiberglass would be the way to go then?

Well if it were me I would decide based on however I plan on having the car painted. If it were going to be professionally painted I would want it fixed the right way with new sheet metal welded in & all the rusty metal cut or ground off. That way there is no risk of the patch falling off or the rust getting worse & ruining an expensive paint job.

But, if I were trying to do it all myself, I would use the fiberglass knowing if the fiberglass patch ever falls off a few years later it would not be a big deal to just redo that corner of the car again. You'd still need to get rid of any of that rusty metal.

[hearsejr]

Thanks, I don't think it will be a high dollar paint job...maybe a dark forest green and satin black top with bed liner. I figure that will cover up and seal the top..I hope I can anyway. lol I got a bad spot on the drivers side windshield pillar near the top that I think I can cut a section off a car and get it wielded in there.
I will look in to putting steel in spots, I do not think I can use sheet metal because the spot is so messed up.sheet metal would be nice and faster. lol. you can see where they wielded the steel and it never was flush with the door edge. it sorta went straight down and the putty made the curve and and the body shape. it seems like both of coaches had a lot of filler at the same spot. I'm fixing a '78 cad. superior royale now, but the one that I sold and got crushed was a '77 M&M. I fixed the 77 with a hard epoxy and rust converter (after I wired wheeled it to the steel) and it held for three years sitting it the yard but I never could get it to look right.

[hearsejr]

OK I found a guy that will weild the steel patches to my car. I just need an idea as to what I need for patches. what gauge steel should I buy for the patch? I might can get smaller pieces in odd shapes that are scrap that are big enough to cover the spots, but I don't want nothing too thine or too thick or soft or anything..
Thanks.

[travlinman]

We always cut up another car part, hood, door, trunk, roof, anything You can find. A 4" grinder with a cutting wheel works fine.

[hearsejr]

Thanks, I'll have to hunt for something to cut up. I got a friend that runs a metal fabrication shop. may be he can help me out.