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  • Brake booster

    My Chrysler was going to fail emissions because of a leaking brake booster, and it took me three months to replace it because I'm kind of failing too.

    I finally got it replaced with a Cardone booster, only to find that when I step on the brake, it makes a hissing noise and leaks vacuum. This did not happen when I first drove it.

    There is also a little bit (1/2" or so) slop in the pedal, but the brakes are powerful. I nearly throw myself through the windshield when I put them on, and I've had to relearn to drive the car, but they do work properly.

    I have a nasty habit of testing in park and then just heading for the testing center, and I should have tested it in drive, but when it started shaking with the brakes on, I knew it wasn't going to pass, but I got through the emissions test by holding the car with the parking brake.

    Does anyone know Chryslers? This is a 76. It passed the emissions test with flying colors, the same numbers I have on my tester at home, and when I got home, I richened it up a little and raised the idle a little, so it runs smoothly now, and, interestingly enough, doesn't leal as much.

    Did I get a bad booster? There are a couple of other things too...I raised the compression way up in the 10's and put in a repro Mopar HP cam. How much vacuum should I have, and could low vacuum make it leak?

    Thanks

    -denise

  • #2
    As far as the cam/vacuum results, it's best to talk to the tech line that supports the cam.

    Vacuum is vacuum. A higher cam profile will lessen vacuum, so you are not getting "too much" vacuum to the booster. Before you fail the booster for leaking, with the car "off," pump the shit out of your brake pedal. Pump it until the pedal no longer "pumps up." Once you do that, start the car with your foot still on the brake pedal. If you brake pedal does not drop, you most likely have a vacuum leak inside the booster. A healthy booster will drop that pedal hard - almost as if being sucked down.

    Check your vacuum line to the booster and the check valve.

    To check the check valve, blow through it on one end and then the other. A properly working check valve will blow through only on one end. The end that you can blow through faces the source vacuum(engine).

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    • #3
      STODD makes some great points.

      How much vacuum are you getting? Does the cam have a lumpy idle? Could the vacuum line going to the booster be collapsing? Is there a snug fit for the check valve that STODD is writing about?

      As far as other emission tricks I have used are: 104 octane booster, a fuel additive called 44K from BG products, a bottle of 90% rubbing alcohol in the gas tank, removing the air filter, and raising the idle.

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      • #4
        That sounds like a bad booster, it should not leak at all. Pull the master off and look in and see if there is any fluid in it.

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        • #5
          BTW,
          In many states (AZ included) if you car is insured as a "collector car" and DMV has the idea that it is not your daily driver (who would use an old hearse as a daily driver wink wink), you do NOT need to have it emissioned.

          Here is a link to a provider of that type of insurance. My quote was only $468 a year.

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          • #6
            This is for a year???

            $191
            This quote includes the 10 Mile Plan of Hagerty Plus, click here to learn more.
            Please note: Hagerty Plus roadside assistance is not a reimbursement program. All requests for service must be placed through our dispatch center by calling 888-310-8020, option 1. You may call us anytime 24/7. There is no reimbursement for services we do not dispatch.
            Quote Date: 3/6/2008

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            • #7
              not true about the deq.. in portland oregon ANY CAR that is 1975 or newer HAS to pass deq , even a car that is a classic under the insurance policy / I pay 160.00 full coverage 500/500 deducatable 1 full year on 84 fleetwwod hearse

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              • #8
                Here in the styx we don't have no 'missions so we aint gots to get it. Actually, they have for the past couple of years talked about it moving out to Walton, Barrow and Hall counties.

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                • #9
                  that has got to be nice . I would rather it be that way anytime. you are very lucky

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                  • #10
                    No emission requirements in South Florida, too.

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