Starting a coach that hasn't in a while

[EvilManor]

I'm going to pick up my '69 M&M this weekend and the guy told me that he guaranteed it to run, but it needed plug wires and battery charged. He said he'd charge the battery.

I called him today to double check the car length and wheel base to make sure it would fit on the trailer I've arranged to use and he asked if it had a winch on it. I asked him if he thought it was going to be a problem to start and he then told me that it hasn't been started in a couple of years

I maybe learning a lesson on this one, as I've already paid the guy for the car Hopefully he's not pulling a fast one.

So, what do I need to do to resurrect the ol' girl if she will indeed run.

I'm taking a few basic tools, wrenches, sockets, extensions, etc... Set of plug wires, jumper cables, carb cleaner/Chem tool, gas can w/gas, anything else?

I've never done this sort of thing and don't want to do unnecessary damage.

[jlprigmore]

Sounds like you got all the basics covered. Sitting for a few years, make sure you're gettin good spark from the coil. Check cap and rotor too, make sure they aren't too corroded especially if he's claiming in just needs some plug wires. Thinkin Big Evil is probably the person to give you the best advice he seems to be one of the mechanical guru's on this forum.

[Boogeyman Con Carne]

Make sure those sockets include up to 1.5" in 1/8th increments. First step would be to pull all the plugs and check them. While the plugs are out, squirt an ounce or two of oil in the cylinders, put a socket and breakover bar on the crank and turn the engine 360 degrees clockwise. Bring the #1 cylinder up to TDC (top dead center) Make sure the distributor is still secure before you do this, as it will jump time if it is loose. This will insure that nothing is locked up. If the plugs look good, reinstall. If they are questionable or if you are replacing them anyway, this is the time. Now pull the cap and rotor to check for corrosion, carbon tracking or outright broken pieces. If it still has a points ignition, LOOK at but DON'T TOUCH the points for scoring or wear. If it has been switched to HEI, nothing to see here. Before re-installing the cap, take note of where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing directly at or 180 away from #1 spark plug. Next the plug wires. Once all of this is done, hook up the battery, and disconnect the hot wire from the coil. Turn the engine over until the oil pressure light goes out. Reconnect the hot wire to the coil. Spray 3 seconds of ether/starting fluid in the carb and replace the air filter lid (without the wingnut) and start. You will need to do this a few times to bring the gas all the way from the tank. Once the gas gets to the carb, you'll know it. Now put the wing nut back on the air cleaner and check the trans fluid level. Once that is up to spec, you should be able to drive it onto the trailer...

[jlprigmore]

^ Yeah, what he said^^^

[LMS]

Boogey is right on with what he said, however if the car has sat up for 3 years any fuel in the tank has probably turned to shit, and there may be a lot of rust in the tank. So take some freash fuel with you (atleast 5 gallons) and be prepared to deal with possible tank problems.

[BIGEVIL]

Y'all make me so proud!

1st things 1st. Pop the hood, and use that breaker bar to move that crank bolt at the front of the pulley back and forth a few inches. Dont turn the crank a full revolution until you feel it is relatively smooth.

Boogyman wrote about the distributor. Be sure the rotor moves when you use that breaker bar on the crank.

When you change the plug wires, I would do them 1 at a time so there is no way to screw up the firing order. Just take out 1 spark plug shoot some WD40 in there, put the new plug in (be sure they have been pre gapped), and replace the new wire. Move on to the next one.
The engine oil will probably be just as nasty as the fuel. Transmission fluid has a little better shelf life, but may be low.
Cranking without power to the coil is a good idea if all is still going well. The oil light will only go out for a second or two.
Use starting fluid spray sparringly. Too much will flood the engine or turn the carb into a nice fireball!

OK Denise, your turn.

[northgahearse]

take some new points along
and a good fire extinguisher

just to add to the list

[rubber ducky]

ethers bad prime it with gas not an ether based starting fluid or carb cleaner

[tonytheskin]

I would prob change the oil...I mean, what does it take 10 mins max and 12-15 bucks....also I was going to add what LMS about the gas, we bought a car that sat for 2 years and the tank was full of sludge and varnish....I would disconnect the fuel line going into the pump and run it straight into a fresh can of gas...also check the brakes, yea its just going onto a trailer but you gotta stop 5000 lbs from moving even at 5 miles an hour you'll need help, top off the master and pump, pump, pump. and of course, what everyone else said.

[EvilManor]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I'm no mechanic, but know enough to ask questions before getting to far into something.

So to add to my list

• 6 quarts of oil
• oil filter
• fuel rated line to run to external gas tank
• brake fluid (hadn't thought of that tony thx)
• tranny fluid
• fire extinguisher
• set of points
• dist cap&rotor

[northgahearse]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I'm no mechanic, but know enough to ask questions before getting to far into something.

So to add to my list

• 6 quarts of oil
• oil filter
• fuel rated line to run to external gas tank
• brake fluid (hadn't thought of that tony thx)
• tranny fluid
• fire extinguisher
• set of points
• dist cap&rotor

its only 5 qts oil with filter and the filter is a fram ph25

[EvilManor]

its only 5 qts oil with filter and the filter is a fram ph25

I always buy extra....lol...never know when one might get dropped or knocked over.

[EvilManor]

Here's an update: Last weekend I went out to check all the fluids, turn crank, replace plugs and wires. The cap/rotor looked fairly new so I didn't replace them.

In addition to that I also added a can of sea foam to the fuel tank to hopefully counter the effects of the fuel. After a couple different attempts there just wasn't enough life in the batter and the battery charger and another battery I had on hand wasn't helping.

Yesturday I replaced the battery with a brand new one. She turned over nicely. I forgot fuel, so I gave her a couple short shots of carb cleaner. She roared to life and ran for about 40 seconds or so. She wouldn't re-fire. I figured fuel delivery problem so I gave 2 more short shots after trying again I noticed fuel coming out to the point of puddling on the intake.

Bad float? I dunno, I've never really messed with carbs.
What carb come on the 472's? Brand/model # would be greatly appreciated.

I need to make sure I'm getting adequate spark, but with all the excess fuel and getting late I didn't check.


On a plus side all the running/indicator lights work. Headlights don't but that may just be a fuse.

[northgahearse]

Here's an update: Last weekend I went out to check all the fluids, turn crank, replace plugs and wires. The cap/rotor looked fairly new so I didn't replace them.

In addition to that I also added a can of sea foam to the fuel tank to hopefully counter the effects of the fuel. After a couple different attempts there just wasn't enough life in the batter and the battery charger and another battery I had on hand wasn't helping.

Yesturday I replaced the battery with a brand new one. She turned over nicely. I forgot fuel, so I gave her a couple short shots of carb cleaner. She roared to life and ran for about 40 seconds or so. She wouldn't re-fire. I figured fuel delivery problem so I gave 2 more short shots after trying again I noticed fuel coming out to the point of puddling on the intake.

Bad float? I dunno, I've never really messed with carbs.
What carb come on the 472's? Brand/model # would be greatly appreciated.

I need to make sure I'm getting adequate spark, but with all the excess fuel and getting late I didn't check.


On a plus side all the running/indicator lights work. Headlights don't but that may just be a fuse.

a bit about carbs

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kcadillac2.htm

also plan on just tossing a new fuel pump on... the rubber in side it is goo by now

[EvilManor]

19698472
RochesterQ-JET70292302103
Thanks for the link northgahearse.

plan on just tossing a new fuel pump on... the rubber in side it is goo by now

It's pumping fuel with no problem, i think I'm getting to much fuel. Rather than mess with this carb, I may just replace it.