Will a carb for a '69 Eldorado 472 V8 w/o Air conditioning (#7029232)work on my '69 Coach 472 w/air?
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Would this carb work
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I didn't think that air mattered, but then I don't know a whole lot about carbs. My vacuum diaphragm (hoping I said that right) is cracked. I'm not sure if I can replace just that part or not.
I found a carb that I was asking about in New Old Stock condition for $190. Just didn't want to spend the money if it won't work.
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Originally posted by EvilManor View PostI didn't think that air mattered, but then I don't know a whole lot about carbs. My vacuum diaphragm (hoping I said that right) is cracked. I'm not sure if I can replace just that part or not.
I found a carb that I was asking about in New Old Stock condition for $190. Just didn't want to spend the money if it won't work.
vac lines and hook ups might not be the same carb rebuild kit runs about 20.00
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Originally posted by EvilManor View PostDoes the rebuild kit come with a new vacuum break diaphragm?
the only diaphragm inside the carb is the accelerator pump that has a what they call a cup seal....
that looks like this see pic
and yes kits come with it
a good sight to check outAttached Files
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Originally posted by northgahearse View Postim not sure what your talking about ????
the only diaphragm inside the carb is the accelerator pump that has a what they call a cup seal....
that looks like this see pic
and yes kits come with it
a good sight to check out
With the exception mine is partially metal. Inside is a spring and rubber gasket/seal that appears to be like a flexible boot. Mine is cracked on the plastic side. When I held it closed the car started right up.
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Originally posted by EvilManor View PostMaybe I'm not referring to it by the right name but its on the front pass side of the carb and has a small tube going to the carb close to where the fuel line connects and looks very similar to this
With the exception mine is partially metal. Inside is a spring and rubber gasket/seal that appears to be like a flexible boot. Mine is cracked on the plastic side. When I held it closed the car started right up.
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Most carb rebuild kits I've bought over the years don't come with that thingamajig. I honestly don't see why that eldorado carb wouldn't work. Might find out from a tech what the difference between the ac and non ac carb would be though before I'd make that investment. I know on the older cars the idle raises a bit when the ac kicks on but I'm not sure if thats a linkage thing that just pulls the accelerator cable of if its valve operated on the carb itself. None of my older cars had ac on them.
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Originally posted by jlprigmore View PostMost carb rebuild kits I've bought over the years don't come with that thingamajig. .
that is cause its not a carb part so to say ....
but it is a choke pull off standard hygrade part # cpa38
go here
and put in that part # and see if thats not it
also read the Instruction Sheets link
it will run you maybe 20.00 so just send me the other 160. you were going to spend on a carb you don't need..... but rebuild the one you got for another 25.00 and your good to go
rochester carbs are a bitch but once you learn all about them you just might find they are the best out there ......
google Doug Roe and rochester and you will find out a lot about them this Roe guy is the god of rochesters .....
good luck
btw that is the one the standard parts book calls for its going to be all plastic cause well they don't make real parts anymoreLast edited by northgahearse; 07-08-2008, 09:04 PM.
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If you're going to put a kit in it, be sure to check the welch plugs on the bottom for leakage. If you replace them, use a tiny bit of loc-tite™, and tap them gently with a small drift punch.
Invest in a choke coil, whether it's divorced or not. Most of the vacuum lines can be capped, but make sure that you have one straight manifold vacuum line going through the filewall for the A/C, if you have it. Also, use straight manifold vacuum for your advance.
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Maybe I'm not referring to it by the right name but its on the front pass side of the carb and has a small tube going to the carb close to where the fuel line connects and looks very similar to this
With the exception mine is partially metal. Inside is a spring and rubber gasket/seal that appears to be like a flexible boot. Mine is cracked on the plastic side. When I held it closed the car started right up.
Its purpose is to lock out the rear barrels until the engine is warmed up a little, and to dampen the secondary air valves.
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