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Front manifold vacuum fitting. Can I bypass?

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  • Front manifold vacuum fitting. Can I bypass?

    Alright, I’m in a real jam here and would really appreciate any help you guys could give:

    I have Twenty days to move out of where I’m living right now, and I need to try and patch up my hearse on a shoe-string budget. While trying to solve a different problem, I noticed that the vacuum fitting on the front of the manifold looked a little off, so I put a socket wrench on it and gave it just a little turn. This ended up being a bad idea, because with that one little turn the whole fitting fell apart! The two ports that were on it broke off and had to be removed from the vacuum lines that they were attached to with pliers. The REAL problem is that the threaded section on the bottom of the fitting that screwed directly into the manifold broke off as well, leaving the threaded part still it the manifold!
    I have tried everything I could think of, but I can’t get the threaded part out of the manifold, which means that even if I could find a replacement fitting, I could’ent actually install it! I was thinking maybe I could plug-off or bypass the lines that were connected to it.
    One vacuum line runs to the EFE system, which is just emissions crap I could probably plug off. The other line though, runs to the TVS (Thermal vacuum switch), which has about four other vacuum lines on it, including a line that I think runs to the vacuum advance. I don’t know if I can plug that line (from the fitting, not the advance, of course.) off without causing other problems.
    I’m trying to fix this on my own the best I can, but I just don’t know enough about engines to do this. I even have the factory repair manual, but I just don’t understand a lot of the information it contains! If I can’t get her running well enough to handle an eight hundred mile trip home, I’ll have to give her to a junkyard and have some other family members come and get me. Does any one else here violin music? Weird.

    My car:
    1980 Cadillac Fleetwood, Superior coach builders.
    368, 6 Liter, 8 Cyl, big block. Carbureted.

    Thank you for your time.
    P.S.: CRAP CRAP CRAP CRAP CRAP!!!!!

  • #2
    Without seeing the diagram I am shooting from the hip here but....

    Ok, you didn't mention if the part still in the manifold at least is not leaking water. If its holding, then it will probably be ok.

    What we need to figure out is if the 2 ports allow vacuum to flow through when the engine is warm or cold. If I had to guess, I would guess warm. If thats the case, buy a vacuum butt connector for $0.99 and connect them together.

    If the car runs lousy after doing that, then plug both of them. A 2 port valve that touches water at the base only acts as a gate. Its either open or closed depending on water temp. We just need to figure out which way after the car has warmed up.

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    • #3
      Thanks, I'll give that a try, though my car has always ran badly, so I might not be able to feel a differance! First though, I gotta find something to plug that hole. The threaded peice still in the manifold is hollow, and if I leave it as is, I will probably have the mother of all vacuum leaks on my hands.

      Poo.

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