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  • corpses bride
    replied
    Ok after a few hundred cuss words, new hoses, new modulator, numerous parts replaced that were not needed i finally have Emily shifting the way she should. Come to find out there is a little plastic peice of shit switch that was the problem. Its a ported vacuum switch. For those that dont know its located just under the thermostat housing.(1978 425) It was frickin cracked and wasnt working. When i pulled heads off i must of bumped it and sure as shit it wasnt working the way it should. Damn car pisses me off. What happend to the days of 6 wires 5 hoses and 2 belts and it was good. Hope this helps anyone out that maybe having same issues. Thanks to all who lended some advice.

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  • EvilManor
    replied
    Originally posted by corpses bride View Post
    Evilmanor, you ever get trans problem fixed. I m having same problems.
    corpses bride it ended up being a vacuum line problem. At some point before I bought it one of the vacuum lines were plugged into the wrong place.

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  • corpses bride
    replied
    Evilmanor, you ever get trans problem fixed. I m having same problems.

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  • Blackheart472
    replied
    late shift

    There is also the possibility that the trany is toast, they do burn up, and need to be rebuilt/replaced. If when you started this the fluid was dark red and smelled it was probily burnt.

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  • Highbars
    replied
    Originally posted by corpses bride View Post
    What ever became of this problem. Someone in our group is having same problem. He changed modulator and all vaccum lines. I think its shot because it slips on take off. Let me know if problem was resolved
    Is it slow to engage in reverse also? Low and rev use the same clutch with a band being applied on the low rev drum to get reverse..If engagement is slow in low and reverse then more than likely you have a seal leaking internally or severely worn clutch plates either way it means remove and disassemble.... I am assuming you have checked and it is full of fluid..

    Leave a comment:


  • EvilManor
    replied
    Originally posted by corpses bride View Post
    What ever became of this problem. Someone in our group is having same problem. He changed modulator and all vaccum lines. I think its shot because it slips on take off. Let me know if problem was resolved
    corpses bride it ended up being a vacuum line problem. At some point before I bought it one of the vacuum lines were plugged into the wrong place.

    Leave a comment:


  • corpses bride
    replied
    What ever became of this problem. Someone in our group is having same problem. He changed modulator and all vaccum lines. I think its shot because it slips on take off. Let me know if problem was resolved

    Leave a comment:


  • EvilManor
    replied
    Originally posted by hotroddwayne View Post
    You BETTER be mechanically inclined to own an IH Scout!!!
    You don't have to know much about electronics though....6 fusable circuits and no fuse box

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  • hotroddwayne
    replied
    Originally posted by EvilManor View Post
    I appreciate the suggestions. It's only a pain for me because it's un-chartered waters. I don't have a problem getting dirty/greasy. Between my '69 M&M and my '71 International Scout I've learned a lot about basic mechanics. Thanks again and I'll let you know what I find.
    You BETTER be mechanically inclined to own an IH Scout!!!

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  • EvilManor
    replied
    Originally posted by hotroddwayne View Post
    That tube on the transmission casting doesn't get anything hooked to it. Hmmmm if you have good vacuum it should change the shifts when you adjust the modulator. Change the filter in the tranny... and put a small magnet in the pan (out of the way of any linkage movement) especially if the fluid or filter looks grayish. A magnet will help pull metal particles out of the fluid.
    Actually, here's what i'd do next... go to the parts store & buy one of those vacuum cap sets... they're a collection of different sized rubber caps to block off vacuum lines on the carb (only a few bucks too). Take off the air cleaner & block off ALL the vacuum ports except 3... power brake booster, vacuum advance for the distributor, & the one leading down to the modulator valve. this will rule out any vacuum issues and will change your idle if there WAS a vacuum leak anywhere... see if you have better vacuum down @ the modulator valve, hook it up, & take her for a spin. If it's still the same after adjusting the modulator again then drop the pan & do the filter change & new fluid. Sorry dude it's hard to help being so far away & only going on your descriptions, but i've been spot on before... ask Custom Coffin Works! Yea this is a pain for you but you'll get it straightened out...
    I appreciate the suggestions. It's only a pain for me because it's un-chartered waters. I don't have a problem getting dirty/greasy. Between my '69 M&M and my '71 International Scout I've learned a lot about basic mechanics. Thanks again and I'll let you know what I find.

    Leave a comment:


  • hotroddwayne
    replied
    You're correct it is shifting late...2nd at about 40 and 3rd about 60. I adjusted the modulator, as per the included documentation, but didn't see any change. I have a new filter/gasket and was going to change that, but didn't want to open/drain it twice if there was something else I needed to change inside.

    Maybe if I can find a vacuum gauge I'll know for sure what my vacuum situation is.

    I did just notice what appears to be an open metal tube (like the vacuum lines) above the modulator further up the tranny. Vent line? There's no hose/line connected to it, but looks to be about the same size as the other vacuum lines.
    That tube on the transmission casting doesn't get anything hooked to it. Hmmmm if you have good vacuum it should change the shifts when you adjust the modulator. Change the filter in the tranny... and put a small magnet in the pan (out of the way of any linkage movement) especially if the fluid or filter looks grayish. A magnet will help pull metal particles out of the fluid.
    Actually, here's what i'd do next... go to the parts store & buy one of those vacuum cap sets... they're a collection of different sized rubber caps to block off vacuum lines on the carb (only a few bucks too). Take off the air cleaner & block off ALL the vacuum ports except 3... power brake booster, vacuum advance for the distributor, & the one leading down to the modulator valve. this will rule out any vacuum issues and will change your idle if there WAS a vacuum leak anywhere... see if you have better vacuum down @ the modulator valve, hook it up, & take her for a spin. If it's still the same after adjusting the modulator again then drop the pan & do the filter change & new fluid. Sorry dude it's hard to help being so far away & only going on your descriptions, but i've been spot on before... ask Custom Coffin Works! Yea this is a pain for you but you'll get it straightened out...

    Leave a comment:


  • EvilManor
    replied
    Originally posted by hotroddwayne View Post
    He's having problems with the modulation Highbars. If i remember right it's shifting too late (really winds out before it shifts). There's nothing really accessable when you drop the pan other than the transmission filter. You'll see the valve body once you remove the pan, but it splits into 2 pieces so you'll be looking at the bottom piece of the valve body. If you were to take out all the bolts that are around the outer perimeter of it... you can open it (it'll look almost like a human brain inside... lotsa valleys, curved channels, & pockets for the transfer of fluid) but I strongly suggest you don't open it unless you have a diagram of where the steel balls go back in. Actually there's nothing servicable in there other than the above mentioned shift kit. Have you adjusted the modulator valve? Do you have good vacuum @ the modulator valve when it's at idle? Adjusting the modulator valve should change the shift points to shift sooner.. or later... whatever you desire. there's that screw i described to you inside the vacuum port of your modulator valve, that's where you adjust. Keep us posted...
    You're correct it is shifting late...2nd at about 40 and 3rd about 60. I adjusted the modulator, as per the included documentation, but didn't see any change. I have a new filter/gasket and was going to change that, but didn't want to open/drain it twice if there was something else I needed to change inside.

    Maybe if I can find a vacuum gauge I'll know for sure what my vacuum situation is.

    I did just notice what appears to be an open metal tube (like the vacuum lines) above the modulator further up the tranny. Vent line? There's no hose/line connected to it, but looks to be about the same size as the other vacuum lines.

    Leave a comment:


  • Abnorml
    replied
    When my hearse was shifting late it was a vacuum line behind the carb. You have to climb on the engine to get to it. I asked a couple of people and they said if it's shifting late it's a vacuum problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • hotroddwayne
    replied
    Originally posted by EvilManor View Post
    So there's not anything accessible from removing the tranny pan cover that would need to be replaced besides the filter for OEM shifting?
    He's having problems with the modulation Highbars. If i remember right it's shifting too late (really winds out before it shifts). There's nothing really accessable when you drop the pan other than the transmission filter. You'll see the valve body once you remove the pan, but it splits into 2 pieces so you'll be looking at the bottom piece of the valve body. If you were to take out all the bolts that are around the outer perimeter of it... you can open it (it'll look almost like a human brain inside... lotsa valleys, curved channels, & pockets for the transfer of fluid) but I strongly suggest you don't open it unless you have a diagram of where the steel balls go back in. Actually there's nothing servicable in there other than the above mentioned shift kit. Have you adjusted the modulator valve? Do you have good vacuum @ the modulator valve when it's at idle? Adjusting the modulator valve should change the shift points to shift sooner.. or later... whatever you desire. there's that screw i described to you inside the vacuum port of your modulator valve, that's where you adjust. Keep us posted...

    Leave a comment:


  • Highbars
    replied
    Sorry, I'm playing catch up.... what shift problems are you encountering

    Leave a comment:

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