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Painting my coach MONDAY! Need help...

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  • Painting my coach MONDAY! Need help...

    I am in the process of getting my 1961 Cadillac Miller Meteor Hearse prepared for a complete paint job. I am removing ALL of the trim, stripping ALL of the laquer-checked surfaces to the metal, repairing ALL of the rusted sections and preparing the door jambs as well. I cannot afford to let the paint shop do these things, nor do I trust them to mask around the trim. Besides, if you just mask around the trim, where will the paint fail first?

    I am trying to have it at the paint shop by 8am Monday morning.

    WHO out there has done a COMPLETE paint job on one of these 61-62 Cadillacs? Commercial Chassis / Limo / Passenger?

    WHO, if anyone, has used the "whitewall paint" available on Ebay or elsewhere? What was your experience with it? I WANT wide whites (3" or so) but the tires will rot out from under the car before I put 5,000 miles on them, so I am not going to invest in the "real thing".

    WHERE can I find the side trim clips in pic #2, 3 & 4 ? Most every parts house I have spoken to has a similar clip for Mopars, but the spring retainer exceeds the 3/8" plate width, so it won't work. Same thing with the Ebay sellers. Am I missing something? WILL it work? Is there something else I could use instead?

    WHERE Can I get new gaskets and weatherstripping for this coach? Will I need to cobble together something from a fleetwood kit?

    HOW do you remove the fin-mounted tail light pods? I have not been able to find access to the rear of it, so I cannot ascertain how it is connected. See pic #1.

    HOW do you remove the outer window sill chrome? It looks like it is held with screws, but can it be removed with the glass in the door? Yes, all of my side windows roll all the way down.

    WHY in the bloody blue blazes did Cadillac decide to change the fender-top spears from 61 to 62 just enough that the holes no longer line up? Nobody warned me about this The differences between 61 and 62 have added 2 days to a simple fender swap! See pic #5.

    Have I forgotten something? I am sure I have. If you have any tidbits I haven't touched on, please feel free to share. I am racing the clock on this one, but will take the time to read every bit of advice I can get...
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I've had good feedback with the Cadillac forums on issues/locating parts for my 80:



    It's been a while since I've put in any queries in that forum, but the guys there are really great with offering solutions.

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    • #3
      For clips and weather stripping try...

      Restoration Specialties & Supply

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      • #4
        HOW do you remove the fin-mounted tail light pods? I have not been able to find access to the rear of it, so I cannot ascertain how it is connected. See pic #1.

        From inside, lift the lid off of the casket rail, and find the wiring for that tail light. Disconnect the light, and reach your arm back into the fin. The wiring will help you to feel your way to the nut holding the chrome piece in place. It will be directly above where the wires go.

        I managed to get a picture while taking Helen apart by putting my camera in there and shooting blind. I couldn't actually see what I was doing, but the photo helped me get my bearings.





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        • #5
          My 63 M&M tail light housing was held on by sheet metal screws.

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          • #6
            I knew if I looked at my notes I'd find the site for weatherstripping:

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            • #7
              [QUOTE=Boogeyman Con Carne;44395]
              I am trying to have it at the paint shop by 8am Monday morning.



              WHERE can I find the side trim clips in pic #2, 3 & 4
              WHERE Will I need to cobble together something
              HOW do you remove the fin-mounted tail light pods?
              HOW do you remove the outer window sill chrome? It looks like it is held with screws, but can it be removed with the glass in the door?


              Have I forgotten something? QUOTE]


              Improvise, with the mid 80's plastic discs. GM/Caddy used em, bout 1 1/2 round. Easy to find same principle. Just treat the new screw hole. Silicone, POR, something to seal the screw in. First spot rust will come back to. Just slip the top lip over and run screws back in the bottom. Again, POR is our friend

              TL pods, THawk got it.

              Yank the glass, one slip, and your done. Right angle screw driver PB Blaster, and lots of swearing. They go down all the way, but not enough to make me feel safe. Besides, after all this work, the insides of the bottom of the doors looks just as bad as the outside. Going this far, why half ass it now.


              Best to remove all the glass, back, front, all the window rails will need work. The seals, cracked 20+ years ago from the sun and have been letting water in ever since.

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              • #8
                one other place to check for moulding clips, fasteners, auto bolts, etc.

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                • #9
                  Caddydawg, I appreciate the encouragement, but I will be doing this glass-in, as I cannot afford to replace anything that is not presently broken. Once she is painted, I will be going back around the car to replace and repair one thing at a time as money permits. As for the tail light pods, M+M put solid steel bolsters in under the panels, so unless I cut access holes, they stay put for now...

                  Doug, that is a good suggestion. I have a Fastenal near my house, but the inventory is hit or miss... And if you go into the store and make a purchase THEY STILL CHARGE SHIPPING! Not ready to pay hidden charges, not cool...

                  Here's a few pics of triumphs and tragedies:
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    That is such a cool car.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Boogeyman Con Carne View Post

                      Doug, that is a good suggestion. I have a Fastenal near my house, but the inventory is hit or miss... And if you go into the store and make a purchase THEY STILL CHARGE SHIPPING! Not ready to pay hidden charges, not cool...
                      Larry,
                      Try to get your hands on their catalog, that sob is huge, the website works well too; but I also needed toliet literature.
                      Have you tried pulling the b.s. card to avoid paying excess shipping charge?
                      In a friendly buddy, buddy way (What your charging $*.** shipping for a overpriced $3.00 bolt? How am I going to make any money on this car? Is that the best you can do? Come on man, can you give me a little break.)
                      You'd be surprised how well it works sometimes... LOL

                      Fugal? you damn right I don't want to pay anymore than I have too! besides what I save goes into the hearse for other things, My money pit is always hungry and needing fed.

                      I have not had to pay shipping but did have to buy the whole box of 10 for some hard to find hinge bushings for a ford truck, but the price was still cheaper than o'reillys or autozone plus the chain stores didn't carry the ones I needed, and I couldn't wait three days for internet site to ship them.
                      P.S. if anyone is replacing door bushing on a mid to late model ford truck, let me know I'll make you a good deal on a box of 8 bushings...LOL
                      Last edited by SarahtheSweet; 05-15-2010, 10:15 AM. Reason: idiot typist mistake but could of been computer's fault.

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