Brake Query

[v8nightmare]

In need of some advice, ok so when i bought my coach (90' Eureka Brougham) the parking brake cable was missing from the back of the front door all the way to the drums, ant i want to rebuild to avoid stressin the tranny. All the repair shops around cant make anything happen for me since its a custom cable, and i dont know where to find a custom brake shop, I'm not buying a parts car, dont need a backyard jerry rig job, and dont want to sit around hoping the same coach shows up in a junkyard with the cable intact, and i dont want to spend a fortune... so are there any other ways to make this happen?

[Guest]

why don't you look at the cable on mine or another similar model and see what the cable looks like. then you can buy an equivalent cable and fix it up with cable clamps and all. i don't think it would necessarily be jerry rigged if you use the appropriate cable and fasteners.

it's probably a pretty standard cable, i'd guess. could be similar to throttle cable, or brake cables used on bicycles, etc.

[v8nightmare]

that sounds about right, so i take it that the shops so adamant about not working on it unless they have the exact part as a liability thing?

[Guest]

yes that would be my guess. You may also be able to contact a cadillac dealer and get the exact brake cable. I'm sure the coach builders just use a standard brake cable that they just cut to fit the extended wheel base.

[v8nightmare]

thanks, car's falling apart, now the fuel gauge stays stuck when it gets down to 2 bars, got an opinion on that and apparently instead of the sending unit its most likely the comp. in the dash... ( and i really dont want to pay a bunch of money just to lower the tank and check the ohms in the unit to find out theres nothing wrong w/ it)... and i reeeeally dont want to start dismantling the dash... very annoying ...grrr

[Guest]

i've had the dash apart on mine to upgrade the speakers and work on the stereo. it's not too bad.

is your fuel gauge analog or digital? the gauge on abigail is analog, but the one on my 93 is digital.

[v8nightmare]

is your fuel gauge analog or digital? the gauge on abigail is analog, but the one on my 93 is digital.

its digital

[Morella]

ACE Hardware sells aircraft-quality cable by the foot, in several sizes, and various types of splices, if you need to lengthen a cable.

-d

[Morella]

thanks, car's falling apart, now the fuel gauge stays stuck when it gets down to 2 bars, got an opinion on that and apparently instead of the sending unit its most likely the comp. in the dash... ( and i really dont want to pay a bunch of money just to lower the tank and check the ohms in the unit to find out theres nothing wrong w/ it)... and i reeeeally dont want to start dismantling the dash... very annoying ...grrr

Car's falling apart? Ben voyons, it's 20 years old. If you don't want to work on an old car, my suggestion is to get rid of it. I'm not saying that to be mean and nasty, but because life is too damned short to put up with aggravation from something that is supposed to bring you pleasure (unless it's a spouse, which is normal). They require a lot of work to keep going (cars), and a gas gauge is an extremely minor problem. You don't have to lower the tank, or pay anyone to do that, to check your gauge. Just buy a 100-ohm rheostat, disconnect the wiring connector that goes to the tank (it's back there somewhere), set your rheostat to the values corresponding to the various levels in the tank with an ohmeter, and plug it in and see what the gauge reads. Doing it in 1/8's is accurate enough. These values can be found all over the Internet...Chryslers and some Fords work backwards from GM, but I'm fairly sure that they're all in the range of 0-100 ohms or less. If the gauge reads correctly at all simulated levels, then the problem must be in the tank, or its connectors, but I have never seen one that I couldn't reach without removing the tank. Naturally you would have to pull the tank to work on the float unit, if you isolate the problem to it (be sure you can find a new O-ring for it), but that's OK. Start with it nearly empty, put a scrap of plywood or something and a floor jack under it, lubricate those long strap bolts, and take it down gradually with an air rachet or soft 3/8" impact. It's also a good time to replace the pads under the straps, so they don't gall your tank. This is all the kind of stuff that you should enjoy doing on your days off, if you are going to own an old car. Old cars that don't require any maintenance just don't exist, and even if you have a lot of money, chances are that you can't find a mechanic who is willing or able to maintain them properly.

-d

[v8nightmare]

Car's falling apart? Ben voyons, it's 20 years old. If you don't want to work on an old car, my suggestion is to get rid of it. I'm not saying that to be mean and nasty, but because life is too damned short to put up with aggravation from something that is supposed to bring you pleasure (unless it's a spouse, which is normal). They require a lot of work to keep going (cars), and a gas gauge is an extremely minor problem. You don't have to lower the tank, or pay anyone to do that, to check your gauge. Just buy a 100-ohm rheostat, disconnect the wiring connector that goes to the tank (it's back there somewhere), set your rheostat to the values corresponding to the various levels in the tank with an ohmeter, and plug it in and see what the gauge reads. Doing it in 1/8's is accurate enough. These values can be found all over the Internet...Chryslers and some Fords work backwards from GM, but I'm fairly sure that they're all in the range of 0-100 ohms or less. If the gauge reads correctly at all simulated levels, then the problem must be in the tank, or its connectors, but I have never seen one that I couldn't reach without removing the tank. Naturally you would have to pull the tank to work on the float unit, if you isolate the problem to it (be sure you can find a new O-ring for it), but that's OK. Start with it nearly empty, put a scrap of plywood or something and a floor jack under it, lubricate those long strap bolts, and take it down gradually with an air rachet or soft 3/8" impact. It's also a good time to replace the pads under the straps, so they don't gall your tank. This is all the kind of stuff that you should enjoy doing on your days off, if you are going to own an old car. Old cars that don't require any maintenance just don't exist, and even if you have a lot of money, chances are that you can't find a mechanic who is willing or able to maintain them properly.

-d

thanks for the advice chief, but on my one day off i really dont feel like doing shit, let alone work on another car

[Uglybastard239]

Well, if you don't want to do the work yourself find a mechanic that does. May take some looking though. I've got a sneaking suspicion that the mechanic I usually use doesn't want much to do with the new ride. He looked it over before I bought it but I've never actually seen him touch the 2 or 3 times I've had it down there...and that's just for tire problems.

I'm considering trying the place the guy I bought it off of used to use. I think it was Midas or some such. They replaced the brake lines and some other stuff so I'm at least fairly sure they're not scared shitless by it. I'd personally try a chain store (like Midas or Pep Boys) for the brake cable replacement, I doubt they'll be as finicky about what vehicles they work on as a private owner shop might be. Also you may want to ask at one or two of your local funeral homes about who THEY have doing their work.

About the gas gauge...fill the tank set your trip odometer, keep an eye on the miles and fill it back up before you run out of gas. Depending on your mileage you should be able to keep track reasonably well that way. If it starts, runs and makes you happy the gas gauge is not a make or break item. Hell, I've got a van that the computer is going bad on and it only starts when it feels like it...count yourself lucky.

Glenn

[Morella]

thanks for the advice chief, but on my one day off i really dont feel like doing shit, let alone work on another car

I feel the same way right now, but what else can you do? If you don't work on them, one thing after another goes wrong until there are so many things wrong with the car that you get disgusted with it and end up selling it for nothing.

-d