Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

replacing wheel bearings

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • replacing wheel bearings

    looks like the left front wheel bearing needs replacing on the coach. it's been clicking for a while and just started rolling a little rough yesterday.

    is this relatively straight forward, or is this best left to a professional? i haven't looked it up in the shop manual yet.

  • #2
    It's pretty straight forward. Loosen lug nuts, Jack it up, put it on stands, remove wheel, remove caliper, spin rotor to be sure this is indeed where noises and "rolling rough" originate, remove center bearing cap by tapping around the edges with hammer and chisel, remove cotter pin, remove bearing nut retainer (looks like a small crown), remove nut, (note: You may have a castle nut that combines the retainer and nut), remove spindle washer, gently pull rotor off of spindle, catch outer bearing as it falls, replace rotor on spindle, thread spindle nut on a few turns, with a quick jerking motion, pull rotor off of spindle again, if you have done this maneuver successfully the inner bearing and seal will stay on the spindle, clean bearings and races thoroughly (use solvent if necessary), check for pitting, scarring, galling, etc., if in doubt, replace them! If they are good to go, repack the bearings...
    Here is a video showing how to repack wheel bearings:
    Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

    I always use disposable gloves to keep the grease off of my hands.

    If not, use a hammer and long drift punch to remove the races from the rotor. This is done by placing the drift punch inside the center hole and tapping solidly on the back side of the race to drive it out of the rotor. You may find small recesses to aid race removal in the center hole. Keep at it, they will come out!
    To reinstall, either use a bearing race driver (can be rented from auto parts stores), or I use the old race. gently tap the new race into the bore to get it started, be sure it's perfectly straight! then use your tool or the old race to hammer on and drive the new race home. Be sure it is fully seated! If the old race gets stuck on top of the new one, just repeat the removal procedure for only the extra race! Grease the new races, install previously packed inner wheel bearing, gently tap seal into place. I use a 2X4 to seat it fully without distorting the seal, smear grease on the inside lip of the seal, clean spindle, slide rotor into place, install outer bearing, clean and install spindle washer and nut. Tighten but down fully (as tight as possible with 12" crescent wrench or similar), spin rotor once or twice, then back off nut 1/4 turn. Clean and install retainer and new cotter pin. (remember, always tighten, never loosen nut to get pin in place) Clean and install bearing dust cap, reinstall caliper, reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque lugnuts, reinstall hubcap, wipe greasy fingerprints away and repeat if necessary!

    Comment


    • #3
      well, that was interesting. the father-son commentary was hilarious. i'll read up on it as well. if i decide to tackle this one, i might want someone local to come babysit, er supervise to make sure i don't fuck anything up.

      first things first though, i have to finish the body work. those bumper filler panels have to be trimmed down and hung (which is a pain)

      Comment

      Working...
      X