new to the hearse world.... car info???

[Turkeyman07]

i recently bought a 77 cadi m&m endloader. i dont know anything about it; the factory sitcker under the hood says it has a 425 engine but every garage ive taken it to says that its the original engine and that it is a cadi engine but its either a 472, 473 or 500. HELP!!!!!!!!!! can anyone tell me how to figure out which engine it is? no one that ive spoken to can figure it out and my exhaust maniold is cracked and my headers gaskets need to be replaced but i dont know whicvh engine it is in it..... please help? i lovge thius car and wanna get it in top notch condition but need info. if u can help please emailo me at andy_methvin@yahoo.com thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!

[Turkeyman07]

sorry about my horrible typing

[travlinman]

Should be a 425. Find another garage. To ID Your engine go to cad500.com, there is a section there that will help You. You have a cracked exhaust manifold and headers?

[hotroddwayne]

It will be a 425 unless it was swapped at some point. The 472 was mothballed for the 500, and 1976 was the last year for the 500. The 425 began in 1977 and went until 1979 (I think) then began the 368. Cracked manifolds are quite common with alot of the Caddy big blocks. Running the numbers on the block will tell you what it is. Congrats on your new coach!

[tonytheskin]

All the garages you've been to are staffed by morons. I had a 77 myself and yes, as already stated it would be a 425 (if original as they put it). I'm pretty sure that from the 368,425,472,500 a ton of the parts are interchangeable. Wish you luck on your car.

[Mohawk Freak]

Yeah, morons. It doesn't matter even if it is a bigger engine. The 77 and up chassis is narrower and the older manifolds larger. They won't fit between the a-frames w/o cutting the ends of the a-frame bolts off. You need 77-81 425 or 368 manifolds. The 368 was used in commercial chassis cars only from 82 to 84. Some but not all had the 4.1, that's a different thing. If you can't find one locally, P/M me and I can set you up with one if need be.

[hotroddwayne]

The 368 started in 1980, they put them in standard Cadillacs and commercial chassis Cadillacs. The only difference was the passenger cars got throttle body fuel injection but the commercial chassis stayed with a carb. My '80 S&S Victoria has a 368.

In 1980 the 425 was replaced with the L61, which was the same basic 472 family engine de-bored to 3.80 in (96.5 mm) but retaining the 472 and 425 engines' 4.06" stroke for a total displacement of 368 cu in (6 L). The reduction in displacement was largely an effort to meet CAFE requirements for fuel economy. Throttle-body fuel injection was now standard except for the Commercial Chassis for hearse and ambulance builders. The 368 was dropped from most Cadillac passenger cars after the 1981 model year, however the carbureted 368 remained in the Commercial Chassis through 1984. The 368 has the distinction of being the last traditional "big-block" cast-iron pushrod V8 engine available in production cars - it lasted until 1984 in the commercial chassis. All rival big blocks disappeared between 1976 and 1978. In the RWD models it was always coupled with the heavy duty THM400 transmission, the last factory-produced GM car to come with this.

[Turkeyman07]

thank you guys for all your help. im checking everyones input and trying to come to a conclusion. if anyone else has input or if you guys have more all is welcomed and very much appriciated! you guys have been more helpful than anyone ive come across so thanks to all

[Mohawk Freak]

More trivia: Although a 425 crank is the same stroke as a 472, a lot of weight was taken off them. They are visibly downsized and weaker. Also, it's the Eldo that was the fuelie in 1980. My 80 Fleetwood sedan is 368 w/carb. F/I may have been optional I think. 1981 was the year of the 368 w/the V 8-6-4.

[corpses bride]

congrats on the new ride. Unless it has been swapped as mentioned you have the 425. If you are going to do exhaust yourself take your time. went thru the same thing a year ago and if not carefull you'll end up pulling motor and drilling them out. The easiest way to break them loose I found is to soak the bolt as much as possible and let sit a day or two. Then heat them up and let them sit for a few hrs, if u can give em a tap with a hamm or whatever works. The key is to strike it straight on then try to tighten them a hair. If they move spray them up again and try to back them out. Good Luck