Tackling rust for a first timer?

[Joseph Lavender]

I just bought a 79 miller meteor.

Planning to do most of the body work myself. Here's the spots I've found that I "know of" where its rusted through.

Whats the best way to tackle this? I have people telling me.. bondo.. etc... Here's some videos of the areas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7x_pQPq2Fs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMkEbWXhQQo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HewXIPYHXCw

[pyro]

This will probably offend some, but then I know who not to do my body work. Only a moron or a cheat uses bondo to repair rust. Rust always comes back if not completely removed. . Grind the rust to bare metal for the surface rust. If it has not gone through the metal, then you can use the filler to smooth out the metal. For the rust that has poked a hole in the metal, cut out all the affected metal, and weld in new metal. Then use the filler to smooth the surface.

[Mohawk Freak]

I'm no body man either, but I'd say you're gonna need to prepare for a lot of trim removal and general disassembly. That's a lot of hrs. to fix properly. My car's gonna look ghetto for a long time for the same reason.

[Joseph Lavender]

This will probably offend some, but then I know who not to do my body work. Only a moron or a cheat uses bondo to repair rust. Rust always comes back if not completely removed. . Grind the rust to bare metal for the surface rust. If it has not gone through the metal, then you can use the filler to smooth out the metal. For the rust that has poked a hole in the metal, cut out all the affected metal, and weld in new metal. Then use the filler to smooth the surface.

I won't know just how much metal is affected til I get the paint off. Those holes were just from me going around the car with a screw driver and picking at the rust to see just how bad it is.

[Hoodlum Rocky]

Like pyro said, just bondo it up will always just come back to haunt you. You need to cut it out and replace it, or if it is not to big and you are good with i mig welder you shoild be able to weld up the holes by tacking it up around the edges till it is filled.

[Riff Raff]

I agree with pryo, but I would sand blast the rust away. Grinding will get most of it, but can still leave rust on the low spots if not careful. Then cut out the bad spots and weld in new metal. Be careful of what is behind where you are welding or you could start a fire. I like to spot weld around a patch leaving space between the welds until the patch is fully welded. This makes it so the heat is disapated better so the metal doesn't warp as much.

[Beladona_13]

^^^^What he said!^^^^

[Joseph Lavender]

the biggest pain so far that I see is going to be that rusted out spot on the door. Hopefully all of this is fixable with some welding.

[Beast Lee]

Tackling rust for a first timer...

The problem with rust on vehicle sheet metal is that what you see is generally only the tip of the iceberg... What you need to do is grind down the affected area, at least 6 to 8" beyond the rust, cut a metal patch and weld it in... Then treat the area with a chemical treatment that converts rust (something like Rust Mort)... You follow that with primer and then a thin skim of body filler (Bondo), primer some more, sand, primer, and repeat... You can then apply your finishing coat utilizing automotive paint... Done this way you'll have a repair that will last for many years to come...

[pyro]

Looks like you have some bends also. A metal break is a great thing if you plan on doing alot of body work.

[Mohawk Freak]

I'm taking my rust to this guy with a big ass sandblaster and let him rip into it till the metal is white. Some zinc chromate primer over that should slow the cancer down. It's kind of primitive, but any time I have door panels off or access to areas where water could enter, I'll hose it all with motor oil. It's cheap and it works.

[Hoodlum Rocky]

The down side of the oil thing is if you ever have to weld something on the car it turns into a burning smoldering mess. I had to work on a car that someone coated the inside of the quarter panels and it was not fun. You are better if you want to flood it with something that is not alot of money. You can take rustolem oil based primer and a brush, or you can pour it in, and if you have to weld on it it will just burn a little bit around the weld and not the whole inside of the panel.

[Mohawk Freak]

Yeah you're spot on with that Rocky. It is the hillbilly method. I wont soak them till it's buttoned up and done. You can't beat it for a car you're going to mothball outside though. I hosed the trunk floor and undercarriage of a Chevelle I parked 10 yrs ago and there is no surface rust visible to this day. I wouldn't do it to one of those trick cars you make but to get a winter driver a little protection it's not bad. That white crap keeps coming from the sky..DOH!

[Hoodlum Rocky]

Yeah if it something you are going to lay around out side for some time spraying it down with oil will keep it from getting worse. There was a guy out by me that had a new chevy truck that was white and he sprayed to lower side of it with oil because he was all worried about rust. It looked like hell, but come spring he would degrease it and pressure wash it off in spring.

[Hoodlum Rocky]

Another product that i use when the cars are all finished up is from 3M "that stands for minnesota mineing and markup" is rust fighter I it comes in spray can and it is like a oil for about a day then dries up to a wax. It is a great way to seal up the inside of doors and quarters and stuff. But that is usually the last thing after paint befor i put it all back together.