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1977 Cadillac Superior Landau... Questions!!! <3

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  • #16
    Okay, got filters, new EGR tube, and fuel filter. Tightened up the throttle cable. Idles better. I need carb gaskets, and to put in the fuel filter. Having trouble finding where it goes. Trying to trace the line from the fuel tank. <3

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    • #17
      I need to chime in and point out that women talking cars is completely hot.

      Carry on.

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      • #18
        It has been a while since i have worked on a 77. If you cant find the filter then it is probably like the 80's models. if you unscrew the fuel line from the carburator the filter should pop right out. I think its on a spring so it might fly out at ya.. That is if of course you don't find it somewear else first..

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        • #19
          Good deal about the transmission. I was concerned that maybe you had a transmission that was checking out and as it was seizing up in some manner to stall out the engine. I do not believe that is the case from what you have described. Which brings me to a few other items...


          I think the "butterfly valve" that you're referring to is actually your choke plate. You did not specify whether it is a 2 barrel or 4 barrel carburetor. I'm pretty sure most Cadillacs of that vintage came with a 4bbl Quadrajet but I cannot swear to it so if you've got a 2bbl you may disregard this paragraph. If a 4 barrel is the case, you should have two discernible sets of plates on top; one to the front and one set to the rear. The smaller one up front is your choke plate. Below this plate are the throttle butterflies which are commonly referred to as "primaries". This upper plate (choke) should be closed when the engine is cold and open when the engine has been running for several minutes. Even when cold, you should be able to flip this plate open against the thermal spring that is forcing it shut. If it does not open up after running a bit, it will cause an excessively rich condition that will stall out the engine. The ones towards the rear of the car are much larger and cannot move while the throttle is closed. If you twist the throttle to an open position, these should move freely. These are commonly referred to as "secondaries". On a quadrajet carburetor, these will be vacuum operated. Basically, if you were to pull the throttle wide open, the primaries are mechanically actuated by the throttle cable. Once they are opened up, the vacuum signal to the carburetor drops because the hole created by opening the primaries doesn't allow the engine to create much suction within the intake. This lack of vacuum allows the secondaries' spring to override the vacuum operated diaphragm that was holding them shut and they will open. At this point, the engine makes an honest effort to suck in the world and should consume gasoline as fast as you can get it there. The secondaries are only needed when you're hussling though. Otherwise, it is beneficial to the engine's fuel economy to have them closed off entirely. So much so that there is a mechanical interlock on the Q-Jets that will keep the upper plates from opening when the primary throttle plates (butterflies) aren't opened far enough.


          Also, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor body and remove the thimble sized filter screen if it is still there. The intent of these filter screens is to act as a last defense for trash getting into the carburetor. Mostly, they just cause headaches. You are much better served by keeping a larger, transparent, inline fuel filter just ahead of the carburetor. It allows you to confirm the presence of fuel as well as its relative condition with regards to rust and the like.

          There should be a larger fuel filter in between the fuel pump and the fuel tank on your car. These are typically metal. If you ever find yourself needing to drop the tank for any reason; you'll also want to pull the fuel pickup assembly and remove the little sock thing if it has one. The clear filter ahead of the carburetor will tell you at a glance if you've got sketchy gas coming through and the fuel filter in between the pump and the tank should be adequate for keeping particulates out of the pump.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by mr x View Post
            It has been a while since i have worked on a 77. If you cant find the filter then it is probably like the 80's models. if you unscrew the fuel line from the carburator the filter should pop right out. I think its on a spring so it might fly out at ya.. That is if of course you don't find it somewear else first..
            Okay talked to my buddy. The filter is located behind the driverside door. Have not seen it yet but getting ready to go down to the parts store and get shite to repair the break lines. Will need breaks at some point. lol.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Dickey View Post
              Good deal about the transmission. I was concerned that maybe you had a transmission that was checking out and as it was seizing up in some manner to stall out the engine. I do not believe that is the case from what you have described. Which brings me to a few other items...


              I think the "butterfly valve" that you're referring to is actually your choke plate. You did not specify whether it is a 2 barrel or 4 barrel carburetor. I'm pretty sure most Cadillacs of that vintage came with a 4bbl Quadrajet but I cannot swear to it so if you've got a 2bbl you may disregard this paragraph. If a 4 barrel is the case, you should have two discernible sets of plates on top; one to the front and one set to the rear. The smaller one up front is your choke plate. Below this plate are the throttle butterflies which are commonly referred to as "primaries". This upper plate (choke) should be closed when the engine is cold and open when the engine has been running for several minutes. Even when cold, you should be able to flip this plate open against the thermal spring that is forcing it shut. If it does not open up after running a bit, it will cause an excessively rich condition that will stall out the engine. The ones towards the rear of the car are much larger and cannot move while the throttle is closed. If you twist the throttle to an open position, these should move freely. These are commonly referred to as "secondaries". On a quadrajet carburetor, these will be vacuum operated. Basically, if you were to pull the throttle wide open, the primaries are mechanically actuated by the throttle cable. Once they are opened up, the vacuum signal to the carburetor drops because the hole created by opening the primaries doesn't allow the engine to create much suction within the intake. This lack of vacuum allows the secondaries' spring to override the vacuum operated diaphragm that was holding them shut and they will open. At this point, the engine makes an honest effort to suck in the world and should consume gasoline as fast as you can get it there. The secondaries are only needed when you're hussling though. Otherwise, it is beneficial to the engine's fuel economy to have them closed off entirely. So much so that there is a mechanical interlock on the Q-Jets that will keep the upper plates from opening when the primary throttle plates (butterflies) aren't opened far enough.


              Also, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor body and remove the thimble sized filter screen if it is still there. The intent of these filter screens is to act as a last defense for trash getting into the carburetor. Mostly, they just cause headaches. You are much better served by keeping a larger, transparent, inline fuel filter just ahead of the carburetor. It allows you to confirm the presence of fuel as well as its relative condition with regards to rust and the like.

              There should be a larger fuel filter in between the fuel pump and the fuel tank on your car. These are typically metal. If you ever find yourself needing to drop the tank for any reason; you'll also want to pull the fuel pickup assembly and remove the little sock thing if it has one. The clear filter ahead of the carburetor will tell you at a glance if you've got sketchy gas coming through and the fuel filter in between the pump and the tank should be adequate for keeping particulates out of the pump.
              I was worried it was the tranny as well. Everytime I looked at her I was disgusted with the thought.

              But I am almost positive it is the carb, Timing, or a fuel pump issue lol. Also the gasket at the base of the carb needs to be replaced, which is a quick fix but I have been looking at a few carbs online, Would it be premature to buy a new one? As unrealistic as it is I do want to drive her to PA in late march and also back and forth from VA every other week. I want everything to be running perfect and don't want to have to do this after every trip.

              I put a quick patch on the exhaust this morning while the boy toy searched for the fuel filter. We had to call a friend as I said to figure out where it is. As far as the choke butterfly, It does not stick anymore, I waited for it to warm up and it is functioning fine. New air filter made a world of difference as well as the throttle cable. Just hoping a few more things and a few more $$$$ and all will be peachy!

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              • #22
                and we will get to see it in asheville, i hope?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by ryan_ricks View Post
                  and we will get to see it in asheville, i hope?
                  Oh goodness yes, Asheville is less then 10 min from me.Just need to stop finding things to do to her.. Which yes, won't happen. Now issue with fuel line.. Prolly going to have to replace it as well Found the fuel filter it is behind the carb.. Line is twisted going into it, looks kinda like a pretzel.... Lol

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                  • #24
                    Assuming you have a Quadrajet; they are the most advanced carburetor ever designed in my opinion. Were I in your position, I would definitely look into picking up a pre 1975 version from another Cadillac. There is less in the way of emmission details and the fuel metering will be unaffected. Last I was looking at one, I had built a 7000rpm 406sbc and ordered one from a guy on Ebay who specialized in rebuilding them for performance. Little tricks like using epoxy to plug various vents and what not were already done and it was literally a bolt on, attach the fuel line, electric choke and fire it up ordeal though I did spend some time tuning the idle jets after it warmed up the first time. I paid $300 for mine back in 2002. I have no idea what they go for these days.

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                    • #25
                      Okay so my hand at the work today.... Tore off the mechanical fuel pump today because I found that where the fuel line meets the filter then meets the carb was twisted, Bad like. So went to parts store got new pump, new lines a bender and a double flare tool. (which I will need anyways for the break lines). So I am thinking that this will fix the immediate problem. (Not accelerating ad chuggin). I have had to put some blinders on and try to tackle one thing at a time. Today seemed a bit overwhelming due to the fact I kinda lost it and cursed her up and down and then tossed old um at boytoy demanding he get the 5/8 fitting removed from the broken piece of line. When this did not happen in a timely manner. I had a tempertantrum.... Now I know why my father would toss things... Regrouped and went to parts store again. Priced out Holley carb. 650 cfi was 300 even. and spacers where 19. But was told that larger carbs whould be a bad idea, would cost more and would require WAY more parts. I am looking for someone to rebuild the carbs I have on her now and not have the headache of more money more problems.

                      After I do the fuel pump, lines etc. And she still does not run right I fear I will have to bring her to a shop.. Which I really do not want to do, I don't trust anyone at this point with her, except the guy I bought her from, myself and the toy. I really hope this works.

                      @ Dickey I am going to go on ebay now and look around and see what the have for parts/rebuilds <3

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                      • #26
                        Okay so my hand at the work today.... Tore off the mechanical fuel pump today because I found that where the fuel line meets the filter then meets the carb was twisted, Bad like. So went to parts store got new pump, new lines a bender and a double flare tool. (which I will need anyways for the break lines). So I am thinking that this will fix the immediate problem. (Not accelerating ad chuggin). I have had to put some blinders on and try to tackle one thing at a time. Today seemed a bit overwhelming due to the fact I kinda lost it and cursed her up and down and then tossed old um at boytoy demanding he get the 5/8 fitting removed from the broken piece of line. When this did not happen in a timely manner. I had a tempertantrum.... Now I know why my father would toss things... Regrouped and went to parts store again. Priced out Holley carb. 650 cfi was 300 even. and spacers where 19. But was told that larger carbs whould be a bad idea, would cost more and would require WAY more parts. I am looking for someone to rebuild the carbs I have on her now and not have the headache of more money more problems.

                        After I do the fuel pump, lines etc. And she still does not run right I fear I will have to bring her to a shop.. Which I really do not want to do, I don't trust anyone at this point with her, except the guy I bought her from, myself and the toy. I really hope this works.

                        @ Dickey I am going to go on ebay now and look around and see what the have for parts/rebuilds <3

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                        • #27
                          Oh and yes she is a 4BBL :0.

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                          • #28
                            As I recall, quadrajets only flow 750 or 800 cfm. They are vacuum secondaries though and that allows for a bit more intrinsic compensation on the part of the carburetor which is why they were found on anything from a 283 sbc to a 500 caddy motor. A holley allows for maximum tuning across the various air flow ranges that you'll encounter but you will have to interact considerably with the carburetor during the setup to make it behave. Also worth mentioning is that most of them have mechanical secondaries which will require specific adjustment and tuning to your application. I have found them to be more arduous than their potential benefits accommodate and prefer a properly sorted q-jet. Others, my father in particular, disagree with me on this matter. He has forgotten more than I'll ever know about carburetors so it isn't exactly a fair fight.

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                            • #29
                              SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! All that is left is patch exhaust and replace t block... Then bathtime and body work before paint!!!! <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 Thank you all for the help!!!!

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                              • #30
                                Badass.

                                Any video of her running?

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