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  • #16
    Went back and did the old screw driver to the side of the carb trick to keep it from just pumping fuel everywhere. It'll start run for a minute or so and then die. I was able to get it to start on 3 seperate tries before it wouldn't start anymore.

    This weekend I'm finally going to be able to spend some more time working on the car. It's 30 mins from my house and or parts store. It's just sitting in my parents yard so I thought I'd ask a few questions before heading all the way out there.

    Where is the fuel filter typically located?

    I've never installed a manual fuel pump if I need to replace it is this difficult?

    Can I put an electric fuel pump inline for testing? I've got easy access to one that I can use for trouble shooting.

    If it ends up needing a new carb is there a bolt on replacement available? And how much can I expect to pay?

    Thanks in advance,
    shane

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    • #17
      I'd winch it onto the trailer and deal with it at home.

      Biggest concerns are rust in the cylinders and shellac in the fuel system, and everyone has just about covered those.

      Replace the filter in the carb, being sure to use the right one, and put the spring back in, if it has one. It will be full of dried shellac. The carb may be too, or it might be OK. If your ignition is OK and you have a surging or bad idle, run a couple of tanks of premium gas through it at cruising speeds, because as that shellac starts to break up, it will make your car ping. You may want to put a large inline filter in the fuel feed line (probably 3/8") along the chassis. If the car starts bogging at WOT and changing this filter fixes the problem, you may have to pull the fuel tank out and have it cleaned.

      Check the oil before you start it.

      Don't try to pour gas into it and start it with the air cleaner off, because there is a good chance that you will catch it on fire. The easiest way to prime is just to loosen the top air cleaner nut a little and pour a teaspoon or two of gas in, then tighten it back down. Do not use ether.

      Check the brakes before you put it in gear.



      -denise

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Morella View Post
        I'd winch it onto the trailer and deal with it at home.
        That's not really an option (live in an apartment) or I would have.

        Originally posted by Morella View Post
        Replace the filter in the carb, being sure to use the right one, and put the spring back in, if it has one. It will be full of dried shellac.
        Is this just a wire screen?!?

        Originally posted by Morella View Post
        You may want to put a large inline filter in the fuel feed line (probably 3/8") along the chassis.
        Is this where the factory filter is located?

        Sorry for all the ignorant sounding questions, I just haven't had a chance to look and was just looking for a few answers before I get out there and then have to drive all the way back to town.

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        • #19
          Track down your fuel line that goes into the carb, right there at that connection there should be a little paper filter roughly the size of a thing of chapstick. If there isn't one there than they probably removed it and put one inline. Trace your fuel line through the engine compartment all the way back looking for anything that resembles a fuel filter, could be a metal one or a plastic see through one. Their not dumb questions at all, no matter what some know it alls try and tell you, everyone has to start somewhere. Ask away, everyone here is more than willing to answer any questions you might have.

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          • #20
            It sounds like the carb may just be too gummed up. A possible rebuilt might be the best choice. There will be some identifying numbers on the carb to find a replacement. Write down every number you see. The auto parts store will be able to decipher. There used to be a few companies that would rebuild your carb for you. Google carburetor rebuilders. That will be the cheapest way to go. (maybe a $100 ?)
            As for the fuel filter, it might be right behind where the fuel line screws on to the carb. If not, follow that line on down. You will run in to eventually. It will be about the size of a shot glass.
            The fuel pump is on the drivers side not much lower that the distributor cap. Pumps either work well or not at all (usually).
            Lastly please BE CAREFUL pouring flamables down the carb and cranking. They will blow a huge flame out the carb. It will ruin your day!

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            • #21
              3rd times the charm!

              I drove out there this morning and was unable to locate a fuel filter under the hood. Hopefully there's one underneath inline somewhere. The grass was grown up pretty good so I was unable to get underneath and look.

              I figured what the heck, it's done two different things on two different tries. I'll try again. This time no starter fluid, gas or anything in the carb.

              It roared to life....sputtered a little, blew smoke (probably the sea foam) and I gave it some gas. Let it sit idling till it got up to temp. Checked the brake pressure and all was good. Added some more gas and climbed in for my maiden voyage. Transmission shifted hard 1st couple of times into drive and reverse, but that went away. Not really comfortable with the tires I just putted along about 30 mph. Drove about 2 miles down the road and back. It never shifted, but that may have been due to the slow speed.

              Anyway I'm relieved, and now need to track down and replace fuel filter, figure out why the headlights don't work.

              Thanks to everyone on here for your help!!


              Found the exhaust leak from pass side exhaust manifold. Look like someone tried to patch weld it.

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              • #22
                The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step.

                Congrats!

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                • #23
                  Is the vacuum break diaphragm replaceable on a Q-Jet carburetor?

                  I know this isn't the actual diagram but #59 is very similar to the piece on my carb that has split open. It's a partially metal and part plastic piece. The plastic has split. If I hold it closed it'll start. If I don't it won't.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by EvilManor View Post
                    Is the vacuum break diaphragm replaceable on a Q-Jet carburetor?

                    I know this isn't the actual diagram but #59 is very similar to the piece on my carb that has split open. It's a partially metal and part plastic piece. The plastic has split. If I hold it closed it'll start. If I don't it won't.
                    Yes they are! Lucky you! Now ya just gotta find one....

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Boogeyman Con Carne View Post
                      Yes they are! Lucky you! Now ya just gotta find one....
                      I got a feeling that's going to be like finding a needle in a haystack. I can't even find a rebuild kit locally or find anyone with a carb in stock. Except for that chromed out 750 cfm edelbrock performance carb.

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