transmission trouble

[mdeanr]

i would go with line-x personally. it will protect it from rusting later. also, i think line-x can be done in gray. i know they have different colors.

[tonytheskin]

That line should just push back in to the carb. may take alil lube and some pushing.(insert back joke here)

[Abnorml]

I pushed the line back in the hole. I haven't drove Her yet, I might take Her to a cruise in on Thurs. I hope this fixed Her.

[Custom Coffin Works]

I couldn't get the pictures to upload so here is my photobucket. I also have pictures of my hearse before, during, and after paint. Here is the link http://s179.photobucket.com/albums/w...orml_13/Abbie/

Looks is if it has broken off flush from the carb or fell/pulled out. Your gas milage probably went to shit too. Rodchestor (spelling) carbs have those pipes pushed in, or what they call an "interferance fit". Look for a hole on the back side of the carb and try to push the pipe back in. Should be relativly close to when the pipe is now as it doesn't move away on it's own. If you can not find the hole, simply start up the motor and run your finger over the back of the carb. Careful of any moving parts and that EGR valve is going to be hot. Once you run your finger over the spot you'll hear the engine's rpm climb a bit. That's the spot.
Good Luck

[Custom Coffin Works]

I pushed the line back in the hole. I haven't drove Her yet, I might take Her to a cruise in on Thurs. I hope this fixed Her.

Now figure out why it came out....if you have a broken motor mount, it will allow the motor to lift on acceleration and pull tight on those lines. Place the trans in drive and while holding the brake, appliy a little bit of gas. If you see the engine lift more than an inch you have a broken mount. Which is a little hard to fix than what you've gone through.

[Abnorml]

So far She has ran fine. We went to Georgia last weekend and the only thing that went wrong was a power steering leak from a line I recently replaced. I just tighten the line at that was fixed. I want to replace the rubber lines under the hood. I don't know if any have ever been replaced.

[Morella]

I followed my transmission line and found were a hose is disconnected behind the carb. I don't know to reconnect it. I included pictures, the last picture is my ramps and "creeper". It's not the best, but it works.

I skipped a page, but anyway, a modulator takes full manifold vacuum (MAP). A port on the intake close to the transmission line, or on the back of the carb, which has vacuum at idle as well as higher speeds, are where they usually hook up...at least, on the ones from my day!

-denise

[hotroddwayne]

Since it's a 1970's GM product the modulator valve is also adjustable! Like previously posted, start it up & listen for a sucking sound & feel around the carb for vacuum to pull your finger onto a hole or a hose cracked at it's base leaking vacuum. Locating a vacuum leak (and blocking it with your finger or wiggling the hose on further) will also smooth out the engine. If no vacuum leaks can be found, get under the car with it running & pull off the vacuum line to the modulator valve & check for good vacuum. Here's a trick, if you have good vacuum & it still shifts late the modulator valve has a small flat-head screw in it... inside the small hole where the vacuum line fits over... use a screwdriver & turn it in or out a few turns, then hook up the vacuum line & drive it. Continue this until you find the sweet spot. If you have weak or poor vacuum (& found no leaks) buy a section of stiff vacuum line & T into a good vacuum source & run it down to the modulator valve to gain good vacuum. That valve is the key to all your shift points (unless you install a shift kit in the valve body to MAKE it shift harder!) so play around with it & you'll learn quickly how to adjust your shifts. It can also be changed with removing one bolt & the holder comes off. You can pull it out & replace it without getting drowned with tranny fluid (unlike a damn FORD C-6 i learned the HARD way LOL) Hope this helps you...