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  • Shifting problem continues

    Ok, I've checked all the vacuum lines, replaced the modulator, fixed a hard line leak to the tranny cooler and bought a filter kit. While talking to my brother he said that I might want to go ahead and replace the shift kit while I'm in there.

    I'm not real sure what this is, but it didn't seem to be all that involved. I've checked local parts places, but can't find one. Any body got any ideas where to look?

  • #2
    I've heard of putting a shift kit in a trans but that involves pulling the valve body and drilling holes and stuff. It not something that is a replaceable part.

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    • #3
      Nah... a shift kit is so simple anyone can do it. B&M sells their shift kit in a flat but large package... & it's expensive. Go to NAPA & buy their "shift improver kit" if you want it to shift hard. Their kit comes in a small manilla envelope, all that's in it is 3 or 4 steel balls & a diagram of where to put them in the valve body. No drilling required. You remove all the stock balls & replace them as shown on the diagram... & think it was like $22 for the last one I bought. KEEP IN MIND this is for HARDER shifts, not modulation problems with shifting too late or too soon.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by hotroddwayne View Post
        Nah... a shift kit is so simple anyone can do it. B&M sells their shift kit in a flat but large package... & it's expensive. Go to NAPA & buy their "shift improver kit" if you want it to shift hard. Their kit comes in a small manilla envelope, all that's in it is 3 or 4 steel balls & a diagram of where to put them in the valve body. No drilling required. You remove all the stock balls & replace them as shown on the diagram... & think it was like $22 for the last one I bought. KEEP IN MIND this is for HARDER shifts, not modulation problems with shifting too late or too soon.
        So there's not anything accessible from removing the tranny pan cover that would need to be replaced besides the filter for OEM shifting?

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        • #5
          Sorry, I'm playing catch up.... what shift problems are you encountering

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          • #6
            Originally posted by EvilManor View Post
            So there's not anything accessible from removing the tranny pan cover that would need to be replaced besides the filter for OEM shifting?
            He's having problems with the modulation Highbars. If i remember right it's shifting too late (really winds out before it shifts). There's nothing really accessable when you drop the pan other than the transmission filter. You'll see the valve body once you remove the pan, but it splits into 2 pieces so you'll be looking at the bottom piece of the valve body. If you were to take out all the bolts that are around the outer perimeter of it... you can open it (it'll look almost like a human brain inside... lotsa valleys, curved channels, & pockets for the transfer of fluid) but I strongly suggest you don't open it unless you have a diagram of where the steel balls go back in. Actually there's nothing servicable in there other than the above mentioned shift kit. Have you adjusted the modulator valve? Do you have good vacuum @ the modulator valve when it's at idle? Adjusting the modulator valve should change the shift points to shift sooner.. or later... whatever you desire. there's that screw i described to you inside the vacuum port of your modulator valve, that's where you adjust. Keep us posted...

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            • #7
              When my hearse was shifting late it was a vacuum line behind the carb. You have to climb on the engine to get to it. I asked a couple of people and they said if it's shifting late it's a vacuum problem.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by hotroddwayne View Post
                He's having problems with the modulation Highbars. If i remember right it's shifting too late (really winds out before it shifts). There's nothing really accessable when you drop the pan other than the transmission filter. You'll see the valve body once you remove the pan, but it splits into 2 pieces so you'll be looking at the bottom piece of the valve body. If you were to take out all the bolts that are around the outer perimeter of it... you can open it (it'll look almost like a human brain inside... lotsa valleys, curved channels, & pockets for the transfer of fluid) but I strongly suggest you don't open it unless you have a diagram of where the steel balls go back in. Actually there's nothing servicable in there other than the above mentioned shift kit. Have you adjusted the modulator valve? Do you have good vacuum @ the modulator valve when it's at idle? Adjusting the modulator valve should change the shift points to shift sooner.. or later... whatever you desire. there's that screw i described to you inside the vacuum port of your modulator valve, that's where you adjust. Keep us posted...
                You're correct it is shifting late...2nd at about 40 and 3rd about 60. I adjusted the modulator, as per the included documentation, but didn't see any change. I have a new filter/gasket and was going to change that, but didn't want to open/drain it twice if there was something else I needed to change inside.

                Maybe if I can find a vacuum gauge I'll know for sure what my vacuum situation is.

                I did just notice what appears to be an open metal tube (like the vacuum lines) above the modulator further up the tranny. Vent line? There's no hose/line connected to it, but looks to be about the same size as the other vacuum lines.

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                • #9
                  You're correct it is shifting late...2nd at about 40 and 3rd about 60. I adjusted the modulator, as per the included documentation, but didn't see any change. I have a new filter/gasket and was going to change that, but didn't want to open/drain it twice if there was something else I needed to change inside.

                  Maybe if I can find a vacuum gauge I'll know for sure what my vacuum situation is.

                  I did just notice what appears to be an open metal tube (like the vacuum lines) above the modulator further up the tranny. Vent line? There's no hose/line connected to it, but looks to be about the same size as the other vacuum lines.
                  That tube on the transmission casting doesn't get anything hooked to it. Hmmmm if you have good vacuum it should change the shifts when you adjust the modulator. Change the filter in the tranny... and put a small magnet in the pan (out of the way of any linkage movement) especially if the fluid or filter looks grayish. A magnet will help pull metal particles out of the fluid.
                  Actually, here's what i'd do next... go to the parts store & buy one of those vacuum cap sets... they're a collection of different sized rubber caps to block off vacuum lines on the carb (only a few bucks too). Take off the air cleaner & block off ALL the vacuum ports except 3... power brake booster, vacuum advance for the distributor, & the one leading down to the modulator valve. this will rule out any vacuum issues and will change your idle if there WAS a vacuum leak anywhere... see if you have better vacuum down @ the modulator valve, hook it up, & take her for a spin. If it's still the same after adjusting the modulator again then drop the pan & do the filter change & new fluid. Sorry dude it's hard to help being so far away & only going on your descriptions, but i've been spot on before... ask Custom Coffin Works! Yea this is a pain for you but you'll get it straightened out...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by hotroddwayne View Post
                    That tube on the transmission casting doesn't get anything hooked to it. Hmmmm if you have good vacuum it should change the shifts when you adjust the modulator. Change the filter in the tranny... and put a small magnet in the pan (out of the way of any linkage movement) especially if the fluid or filter looks grayish. A magnet will help pull metal particles out of the fluid.
                    Actually, here's what i'd do next... go to the parts store & buy one of those vacuum cap sets... they're a collection of different sized rubber caps to block off vacuum lines on the carb (only a few bucks too). Take off the air cleaner & block off ALL the vacuum ports except 3... power brake booster, vacuum advance for the distributor, & the one leading down to the modulator valve. this will rule out any vacuum issues and will change your idle if there WAS a vacuum leak anywhere... see if you have better vacuum down @ the modulator valve, hook it up, & take her for a spin. If it's still the same after adjusting the modulator again then drop the pan & do the filter change & new fluid. Sorry dude it's hard to help being so far away & only going on your descriptions, but i've been spot on before... ask Custom Coffin Works! Yea this is a pain for you but you'll get it straightened out...
                    I appreciate the suggestions. It's only a pain for me because it's un-chartered waters. I don't have a problem getting dirty/greasy. Between my '69 M&M and my '71 International Scout I've learned a lot about basic mechanics. Thanks again and I'll let you know what I find.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by EvilManor View Post
                      I appreciate the suggestions. It's only a pain for me because it's un-chartered waters. I don't have a problem getting dirty/greasy. Between my '69 M&M and my '71 International Scout I've learned a lot about basic mechanics. Thanks again and I'll let you know what I find.
                      You BETTER be mechanically inclined to own an IH Scout!!!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by hotroddwayne View Post
                        You BETTER be mechanically inclined to own an IH Scout!!!
                        You don't have to know much about electronics though....6 fusable circuits and no fuse box

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                        • #13
                          What ever became of this problem. Someone in our group is having same problem. He changed modulator and all vaccum lines. I think its shot because it slips on take off. Let me know if problem was resolved

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by corpses bride View Post
                            What ever became of this problem. Someone in our group is having same problem. He changed modulator and all vaccum lines. I think its shot because it slips on take off. Let me know if problem was resolved
                            corpses bride it ended up being a vacuum line problem. At some point before I bought it one of the vacuum lines were plugged into the wrong place.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by corpses bride View Post
                              What ever became of this problem. Someone in our group is having same problem. He changed modulator and all vaccum lines. I think its shot because it slips on take off. Let me know if problem was resolved
                              Is it slow to engage in reverse also? Low and rev use the same clutch with a band being applied on the low rev drum to get reverse..If engagement is slow in low and reverse then more than likely you have a seal leaking internally or severely worn clutch plates either way it means remove and disassemble.... I am assuming you have checked and it is full of fluid..

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