472 Cadillac Radiator

[Morella]

I hooked mine up in the hole where the 225-degree switch used to go, because I wanted to retain the original temp light as well as the gauge.

-d

[Paradox]

Online you can get the HD one cheaper.

[Paradox]

I added three gauges, water temp., oil pressure, and voltage. I mounted them under the dash. You can buy a cheap set from Big Lots for around $13. I bought them for the gauge holder, I got my gauges off the internet.

Exactly the 3 I would like to add! Where did you install the sending unit for the oil PSI?

[Beladona_13]

Well, the original oil pressure sending unit on 472, 500, and 425 is on the back of the block behind the intake manifold just forward of the bellhousing. I use a small piece of 1/8" NPT pipe and a TEE to allow for using the original sender and the aftermarket line. I would caution against using the plastic line that comes with the kit, I've seen them fail. Instead substitute 1/8" copper line. Same size, same fittings, increased durability!

[Paradox]

I would never use one of those type of guages. I would only use a digital sending unit and guage. Too much risk with tubes.

[Abnorml]

Exactly the 3 I would like to add! Where did you install the sending unit for the oil PSI?

The oil pressure and the water temp gauges came with sending units. Replaced the original oil sending unit with the one that came with the gauge. I mounted the gauges under the dash. There was a screw hole in the bottom of the dash. I will have to get some pictures.

[Paradox]

mounting the gauges themselves is not the issue at all but it would be nice to see how they look. In summary the Temp sending unit is under the compressor (on the intake or in front of it?) and the oil sending unit is on the back near the bellhousing and the oil you can get a T fitting to retain the factory lights. Can you retain the factory water temp light?

Wow this is off topic now.

[Abnorml]

Straight from the Cadillac 1973 Shop Manual. "The engine metal temperature switch, located at the rear of the left cylinder head senses the temperature of the casting rather than the temperature of the coolant. The switch screws into a blind hole in the cylinder head, so sealer must not be used when installing this switch."
That's why I had to get the water temperature sensor adapter, so the temp sensor could get the temperature of the coolant. So the factory sensor will not be effected. The light will still work as before.

[Morella]

There are actually two temperature lights. The coolant temp switch under the compressor turns on the warning light, and the metal temp switch on the head turns on the "SHUT IT THE FUCK OFF NOW BEFORE YOU BLOW IT UP!" light, as well as the key buzzer, on some models.

-d

[Abnorml]

I finally got all the gauges hooked up and took a couple pictures.

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