Put a hose on the fuel line entering the carb and crank it over, catch the gas in a can or something. If you get a good steady supply of gas, you should be alright with the fuel pump. If that's good, warm it up and cover the top of the carb with your hand. If the idle goes up, it's running lean. Then check for vacuum leaks. I don't know what symptoms you are concerned with but carbs needing a rebuild are a common issue with old cars.
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That's a big surprise. All it takes is sitting around for a while and the problems begin. Worst thing is, the Q-jets have those little welch plugs on the bottom of the center section which cause them to leak down, sometimes after only a few days. Once the bowl is dry for a while, that fine white powder forms on the casting and it's clog city.
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totally cured, drives like a Cadillac - heh.
I gave in and took it to a shop. I found a local mechanic who doesn't speak much english, but only charged me $180 to rebuild the carb, change all four belts on the front, and change the transmission fluid and filter. it's running great now.
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Here is some more info on the 368 Carb. First don't even try to find anything for an 84. For some reason all auto parts stores and most online info is wrong. I've decided to deal with my carb on the 84. It was running ok about 2 months ago and today it ran like go cart. I've noticed some fuel on the intake so I'm gonna rebuild it. The stock carb is a Rochester Quadrajet 17080530 also has 0720 CJY under. To find this carb or a rebuild kit or hell even anything carb related for an 84 is not gonna happen, not sure what went wrong but seems like the parts stores didn't get an update as to what was correct for an 84 commercial chassis 6.0L. So from what I've learned the Delco rebuild kit is part number 76124 for a 1980 caddy 368. It lists the use on the 17080530 q-jet carb which is what my 84 has. I've also learned this carb was put on 80&81 Buicks with the 305 engine and oldsmobiles so we don't have a completely oddball carb or at least the kit is used in multiple carbs BUICK 1980/81 W/305 #'S 17059321, 17080502, 17080504, 17080516, 17080517 1986: 17086004. 1980 83 CADILLAC W/368 ENGINE # 17080530. 1980 OLDSMOBILE #'S 17080504, 17080517.The kit is available from some sellers on ebay, with shipping I paid just under $20.00. The float if needed seems to be available thru local parts stores listed under a 1980 caddy as well. I'm not sure if I need the float yet, but if so it lists for around $15.00. I've never been much of a carb guy either but think I'm gonna tackle this one, if not I have a friend who is a carb nut so it will get done. It just sucks to have to spend so much time trying to find parts for an 84.
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been quite some time since I posted on this issue. I've been replacing parts as time goes by. Here's an update: Had the carb rebuilt(which means the filter was once again changed). Replaced the fuel pump. Another oil change, since it had been sitting for a while. She ran GREAT! I was even able to take it on the highway once when I was running late for work. Problems began arising again. Same problems. Seems the more I drive it, it chokes out more and more. Wouldn't accelerate over 50 at first, then wouldn't make it over 35. Then, would barely accelerate at all. Finally, it started dying @ stops. Throw it in neutral, crank it over, and it fires right back up. Doesn't idle chunky or anything, except when it's cold(keep my foot on the throttle for a couple minutes, let her warm up, idles fine). Last time I drove it, filled the tank with 89 octane as well. So, with a new fuel system from pump to carb, higher octane gasoline, i'm still having the EXACT SAME PROBLEMS!!! Any other suggestions? Or is it time to put her in the hospital and let the doc diagnose it?
As always, any direction would be greatly appreciated.
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The last fuel problem I had caused me to drop the fuel tank. I found the pickup tube clogged. I cleaned it and reinstalled. Car is running good ever since. When that was done the car was doing a very similar thing u described. I got on hwy hit 60 and it wouldn't go anymore. I then did the problem at 45 mph then 35 eventually it would just kill when trying to go. The car would restart everytime, just had a loss of power due to getting starved for fuel. The screen on the tube is pressed on and will come off with vice grips.
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Does this car have a catalytic converter, if it does it sounds like it is blocked. A blocked cat will give the same symptoms, will run fine at idle but won't make power under a load as the exhaust can't escape fast enough and chokes down the engine.
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I'm pretty sure it does still have the catalytic converter. I'll have to crawl underneath and cut that out, and, for good measure, drop the tank(sucks because I JUST FILLED IT). probably in that order. What keeps driving me insane is that it's fine at first, I can drive it for days, THEN it has these problems. I'm assuming it's a matter of build-up, though, eh? Thanks again, all. Between this and the daunting amount of bodywork this coach needs, it's almost enough to make someone on a tight budget give up.
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your problem sounds very similiar to what i had last. when i pulled the screen off it felt crunchy. as i squeezed it the junk inside the mesh broke off inside. i poured it into my hand and had what felt like a rusty sand residue. the inside of my tank had no rust. the car did sit a few months and i found articles where the gummy build up and random debris basically dries in the screen. it doesnt block it completely but heavily restricts fuel flow. eventually it gets worse. oh becareful pulling the pick up assembly out of the tank. its easy to do, but finding a new one from a parts store is difficult. they claimed they were backordered and sellers on ebay want about 100.00. i opted to clean it after crunching the debris out i used some carb cleaner and sprayed it out. i wouldnt rule out the cat either.
then i wound up with my last journey the hidden gremelin which is a whole other post in this section.
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