Originally posted by Abnorml
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hearse cutoff driving
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The instructions for the Accel says you need a ballast resistor. http://prestoliteweb.com/Portals/0/d...it_gm_2010.pdf
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If you guys are referring to the resistor that attaches to the coil bracket and has a single wire that attaches to the positive side of the coil. That is only used as a supressor for noise in your stereo. I actually contacted pertronix as to whether this was needed with their kit. Their response was, if you get a whining noise in your stereo without it, then put it back. lol
An interesting side note. Northga states that his points eliminator was killed when his voltage regulator went out. Well, I installed a single wire alternator with an internal regulator. Maybe this has something to do with the fact that I have had no issues with my pertronix kit.Last edited by EternalCombustion; 04-08-2011, 09:54 AM.
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Originally posted by spastic_chicken View PostI didn't think you needed a ballast resistor when using points eliminator.
but what killed mine was my voltage reg went bad and 18 volts killed it .. and i heard someplace that jumpstarting a car can kill it as well
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I didn't think you needed a ballast resistor when using points eliminator.
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Having the same problem. I replaced the coil again no change. I was told I need a ballast resistor between the ignition wire and coil. The points eliminator I have is an Accel.
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Originally posted by corpses bride View PostPertronix!!!!!! REALLY!!!!!! Thats awesome mines on its way. guess i will be sending that back
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Pertronix!!!!!! REALLY!!!!!! Thats awesome mines on its way. guess i will be sending that back
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Glad to see it fixed the problem for you!Originally posted by Abnorml View PostI replaced the ignition coil and drove about 40 miles one way to a cruise in on Friday night. Didn't have any problem. The new coil has a lifetime warranty, so I won't have to buy another one if this one ever needs to be replaced.
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I replaced the ignition coil and drove about 40 miles one way to a cruise in on Friday night. Didn't have any problem. The new coil has a lifetime warranty, so I won't have to buy another one if this one ever needs to be replaced.
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I've had a similar thing happen with the '80. I'd stick a phillips head screwdriver into the carb to keep it open and it start up. So I just had the carb replaced with a rebuilt.
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Vapor lock usually occurs when you shut down the engine, and try to start it a few minutes later. It's not all that common during cruise, when there is a steady flow of fuel through the line keeping the fuel liquid. This definitely sounds like an ignition problem.
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I'm going to change the coil, this week.
I have heard of vapor lock, but don't know anything about it. Does it all of the sudden happen. I haven't had any problems, since the points were removed.
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I have had coil that would do that some time also. they get hot and fail. I know it sucks replacing parts to try to fix the problem. But coils are not that expensive and if the other is the problem you can throw it out or keep it in the trunk as a worst case spare.
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You could throw a set of points in it and see if you're still having the problem. They are cheap.
Is there a spacer between your carb and intake?
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